Bottles of the week

Oremus Tokaji Furmint 2002, Oremus Tokaji Late Harvest 2003 and Alión 2002

Oremus Tokaji Furmint 2002, Oremus Tokaji Late Harvest 2003 and Alión 2002

Oremus Tokaji Furmint 2002, Mandolas, 14%, €16.50Low in acidity, but rich in flavour and texture, this attractive dry version of the grape behind the stunning Hungarian Tokaji dessert wine is a very good discovery. It is golden in colour, weighty but light in the mouth, with notes of butter and peach. However, Mandolas 2002 lacks the sumptuous balance of the 2003. From:Searsons, Monkstown, Co Dublin.

Oremus Tokaji Late Harvest 2003, 13%, €15, 35clThe top Tokaji can cost up to three times as much, but this modest version of the dessert wine offers a very persuasive introduction to Furmint, with intense orange peel flavours and a rich texture. From:Searsons

Alión 2002, Consecha, Ribera del Duero, 14%, €45Made from 100 per cent Tinto Fino (Tempranillo), the Alion is an awesome wine, though the 2002 is definitely more robust than the sleek 2003, with prominent tannins and vivid blackberry fruit. From:Searsons.