Phyl Clarkeon scents and sensuality
My column is directed more at men this week, so if he needs a discreet last-minute hint, why not leave this page casually on top of the Sports supplement.
Chaps, if you are not buying diamonds this year, fragrance is one of the more extravagant beauty gifts to receive. But if you're anything like the poor soul I met recently in the fragrance department of a large store, it can be a stressful experience. By the time you have left the store with your purchase, you will have had to categorise your loved one into such genres as sporty, sensual, clean and fresh, even heady or musky - and all this in front of a total stranger, if you enlist the help of a store assistant. So what follows are some tried-and-tested classics that are always sure to please, and some new kids on the block that are causing a stir. Take your pick.
THE CLASSICS
Chanel No. 5I can't begin any feature on scent without mentioning this legendary fragrance. It's simply the essence of indefinable femininity, and the bestselling fragrance in the world. A lovely addition to the range this year is the Intense Bath Oil which will leave a heavenly scent in your bathroom afterwards. Other Chanel classics include Coco, exuberant and sensual, and the reworked Coco Mademoiselle, a floral jasmine, light as a petal for the younger fragrance wearer.
Two from Guerlain are worth considering. Shalimar, the better known of the pair, is said to have been "inspired by the timeless love story of an Indian Emperor who designed the Shalimar gardens for the wife he adored". The hint of musk and exotic spices such as amber and vanilla were considered too overtly sensual for refined women when it was first launched. Mitsoukois a classic fragrance, created in 1919. The name means "Mystery" in Japanese. It's the most beautiful bottle on my dressing table. I'll keep it even when it's empty. This was my favourite fragrance at one time, until I heard that it was Margaret Thatcher's fave as well. That did put me off, I must say; in my mind I could not match the sensual glamorous scent with so icy a woman.
Amber Nude Youth Dewis Tom Ford's take on the old classic for Estée Lauder. Radiant florals, dark chocolate, spices and the blatant sensuality of a black rose. Whoa!
Joyby Jean Patou is very special. At one time said to be the most expensive fragrance in the world, this was first launched in 1930, by leading couturier Jean Patou, who created Joy as a gift to American women who could no longer afford his clothes following the stock market crash.
If you want something a little different and harder to define, try Musk oil by Kiehls, which comes in apothecary-style bottles of varying sizes. I always get a reaction when wearing this.
L'Artisan Parfumeur has a stunning array of scents. Timbucktu is outstanding.
THE NEW CONTENDERS
Menard Eau de Kasanekais a complex, elegant fragrance that is ultra-feminine, and contains ambrette seed, which is said to have aphrodisiac effects. The beautiful bottle is designed by the painter Shozo Shimada.
Marc Jacobsis classically feminine and modern, with a provocative depth. The bottle is wrapped in a black leather bow - too cool for school.
Stella In Twoby Stella McCartney enables you to customise your own scent. Combine Peony eau de toilette and Amber solid perfume to your own desired intensity. Mix and match to suit your mood.
When I started wearing Marrons Glacesby Laura Mercier into the office, all eyes looked up when I passed by. I was bombarded with inquiries as to what fragrance I was wearing. Eventually I donated it to the most ardent (and persistent) admirer, and she tells me she gets the same response whenever she wears it.
Don't forget Viktor and Rolf 's Flowerbomb, said both my daughters in unison, when I asked for their opinion on the new scent stars. The fact that they agreed on something was enough to stop me in my tracks and investigate further. It's young, chic and sweetly floral, with a hint of patchouli that keeps it from being too cloying.
Goldby DKNY is "inspired by the light of a woman", according to the gospel of Donna. This fragrance contains gold pollen and golden balsam, and the bottle is encased in a gold hammered-metal sleeve like a modern armour. What will they think of next?
Rumeurby Lanvin. Just like the label's beautiful dresses, easy to wear. No edgy modernism here. It's Lanvin to the core - elegant and modern. A new classic.