Takeaway of the Week: Seriously good New York-style pizza by the slice

A sourdough base and top-quality produce make this pizza super special

Bambino
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Address: 37 Stephen Street Lower, Dublin, D02 T862
Telephone: 01-5471552
Cuisine: Italian
Cost: €€

What’s on offer?

Shane Windrim, formerly of Pi and Little Forest, and Nick DiMaio of Token in Smithfield, have opened a New York-style pizza slice shop in Dublin city centre. After much trialling, three types of organic flour are used in the sourdough-based pizza dough, which is fermented for 48 hours. The pizzas are cooked in a huge New York-style three-deck electric oven which gives a very different bake to a Neapolitan wood-fired oven. The bases are thinner and crisper. The quality of ingredients used is top-notch, including Toonsbridge fior de latte, Andarl Farm pork, and McNally’s Farm organic greens. Slices range from €4.50 to €6.50, and giant 20-inch pizzas range from €30 to €34. The meal deal is two slices and a drink for €12.50.

What did we order?

Three slices — two from the round pizzas, the ricotta and greens and the sausage and pepper; one square slice with burrata; and a chilli and roast garlic crust dip.

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How was the service?

Friendly and efficient. It’s a cool place to hang in while you wait; if you want you can order a beer or a glass of wine.

Was the food nice?

Everything was great, impossible to pick a favourite. The pork sausage, made specially for Bambino by Ardarl Farm is meaty and delicious, very good with peppers on the crisp, thin base. The combination of ricotta and greens works beautifully, with charred greens, melted cheese and a bit of background heat from Calabrian chillies. The burrata square slice is Sicilian-style on a textbook perfect focaccia base, topped with creamy cheese, tomatoes and basil. The chilli and roast garlic crust dip is layered, so you get a taste of both as you dip.

What did it cost?

A light dinner for two was €20.50 — sausage and pepper slice €6, ricotta and greens slice €6, burrata square €6.50 and chilli and garlic dip €2.

Where does it deliver?

No delivery; takeaway and kerbside pick-up, or eat on site. Open daily, 12pm-11pm

Would I order it again?

Yes, this is fantastic pizza, I’ll definitely be back.

Corinna Hardgrave

Corinna Hardgrave

Corinna Hardgrave, a contributor to The Irish Times, writes a weekly restaurant column