Cool cruising

European visitors to Ireland have been doing it for years but for most young Irish people, with their sights set on sunnier shores, it was not their idea of a holiday. That is, until recently. Now, there's been a noticeable upsurge in young Irish professionals choosing an active but relaxing holiday within an hour's drive of most Irish cities - boating on the inland waterways.

Perhaps it is only in recent years, as our city traffic jams reach British and Continental proportions, that more people here began to recognise the attractions of the leisurely "put-put-put" of a hired canal barge or the luxury of a powerful river cruiser.

"There's no hassle of traffic and the Irish waterways are unspoiled, there's greenery, plenty of places to stop along river, hotels, eating out, and plenty of fresh air. Irish people certainly do enjoy it, although there are more foreigners," says Peter Jenkins, chairman of the Irish Boat Rental Association (IBRA).

Traditionally, inland waterway cruising was dominated by Germans and other continental Europeans, who booked these holidays well in advance. That market dropped off several years ago, leaving space for shortnotice rentals, more in sync with the domestic market.

As a result, a growing number of Irish in their mid 20s to late 30s have discovered the slow pace of river and canal cruising holidays.

Thirtysomethings Maeve and Brian O'Kennedy of Ballsbridge, Dublin, prefer river cruising to any holiday, anywhere. For them, it is the ultimate in relaxation. "I'd prefer it to going abroad," says Maeve O'Kennedy. "It's a pretty hassle-free holiday, you completely switch off."

IBRA secretary Derek Dann confirms that the domestic market has shown fairly steady growth over the past four years. His association represents 90 per cent of boat hire firms. "In 1993 there were 1,168 boat weeks sold to those from the island of Ireland. In 1997, that figure went up to 1,562," he reports. This number represents a relatively small part of the total - an estimated 16,000 overseas visitors spent at least one night in a cabin cruiser in 1997. And approximately £6 million was generated for the Irish economy in 1997 by this healthy section of the tourist industry.

Figures on renters' ages are not available, but most operators have noted an increase in rentals by certain Irish age groups.

"Growth appears to be predominately in the younger, 25-35 age group," says Brian Cullen of Ireland Line Cruisers in Killaloe, Co Clare. "They like it because it's on the doorstep and it's an activity holiday. It's convenient and often they group together and that makes it very inexpensive. Middle to larger boats are popular with them."

There are hire facilities within a short drive of most cities - eight operators with services along five routes are featured in Bord Failte's Ireland's Magic Waterways brochure.

Most popular among the cruising Irish are four-night trips on boats with six to eight berths, says Jean Killeen of Emerald Star Line. "We've noticed a big increase with that age, I suppose because there's more spending money and more awareness of the river as an amenity."

Meanwhile, recent improvement in the waterway structure and renovation of interconnecting canals allows holidaymakers more choice of places to go. Transecting the country from southwest to northeast, the Shannon route is the most popular. Boaters may travel up the Shannon from Co Clare and into the Shannon-Erne Waterway, connecting with Upper and Lower Lough Erne in Co Fermanagh. Closer to Dublin, navigable sections of the Grand Canal run from Lucan into the River Barrow and beyond. This route is suitable for the slow, easy pace of narrowboats, or barges. Scenery along the Barrow is sometimes compared to the Rhine.

As a holidaymaker, O'Kennedy also appreciates the international flavour of the rivers and canals. "There's a great rapport between different groups, you meet people from all over - France, Germany - and they're really friendly. On other holidays in Ireland, you don't meet that many people. And the good thing is, you bump into them again," she says. But as with most outdoor activities, rain may dampen the fun. "Our first time, we went on a four-berth. It was October, it rained and there were no showers. We spent most of the day looking for places to get cleaned up," O'Kennedy remembers.

"The last times we went it was in the summer, we had better weather and a bigger boat, so even on a day it was raining it was fine," she adds. Certainly, Brian Cullen always suggests to his clients in Killaloe that they rent a cruiser larger than needed. "It gives you a little bit more room. A boat is a confined space and this makes it more comfortable," he says.

In the experience of the IBRA's Jenkins, however, rain does not deter people. "I don't think people come to Ireland for good weather. Even if it isn't dry, this is a nice holiday because you can still cruise in the wet weather."

Kerry Sloane, owner of Athlone Cruisers, the longest established cruising company on the Shannon, agrees. "Obviously people like sunshine but it's not a sunshine type holiday, it's for other things." On rainy days, people tend to spend the day in pubs or restaurants along the route. And when the sun does shine, full cooking facilities are available on most boats - some people even bring a portable barbecue for riverside picnics. Meanwhile, there has been a sharp, parallel increase in private boat ownership. "There are over 500 hire boats on the river and 2,500 private boats. Many private boats are taking up public mooring space," says Derek Dann of the IBRA. "Harbour-hogging," or using a public mooring for more than five days, is a problem in the more popular areas, he claims.

One drawback to cruising is that engine noise - most noticeably on the more powerful river cruisers - can be wearing on longer voyages. However, there are numerous opportunities to get off the boat to explore. Active holidaymakers bring bicycles and take short trips into the countryside or along the canal banks.

Most village pubs along the routes, meanwhile, offer live music and entertainment. "Usually we'd stop wherever we found there would be live music at night," says O'Kennedy.

Training is conducted before the boat journey begins and assistance is available at all stages of the trip. "They bring you right out to teach you how to reverse and there are life jackets on board. Last year we hit rocks leaving Banagher. We rang and they were out to us within an hour," she says.

The trend among young professionals is set to continue, Cullen reckons. "We get a good repeat business. However, when the German market improves, capacity will become a problem again. The Irish leave it very late to book," he adds.