For Irish fans weighing up the trip to Prague for the World Cup playoffs, the Czech capital offers far more than a football away day. The city has come a long way since the Velvet Revolution and is now deservedly one of Europe’s most attractive destinations.
How to get there?
With some Ryanair return fares already hitting €800 around the March 26th match date between Republic of Ireland and Czech Republic, flying direct won’t suit every pocket. Sitting in the heart of Europe, however, Prague is an easy train or bus ride from several major cities.
Flying into Vienna, Berlin, or Bratislava and taking a €20–40 train (four to five hours) is the usual workaround, but any city in the region with a Dublin flight is worth considering. If you’re thinking of doing the second leg by land, a great starting point is Student Agency/RegioJet, a Czech company offering cheap, comfortable buses and trains into and out of Prague. Book well in advance for the best prices.
Best places to stay?
Prague now caters for every budget, from solid mid-range chains to swish boutique hotels, and plenty of good hostels if you’re doing it on the cheap.
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For central convenience, the Old Town or Malá Strana are the most picturesque, while the New Town is close to everything, though it can feel a bit seedy around Wenceslas Square. If you want an elegant, cafe-lined “European” experience, try the leafy but central Vinohrady area. For a proper local vibe, the rough-and-ready Žižkov district offers great pubs and a relaxed atmosphere.
Central options will obviously cost more around match time, but Prague’s excellent public transport means you can stay almost anywhere and get around quite easily. A 72-hour pass (about €14) gives unlimited travel on metro, tram, bus, ferry, and suburban trains.
What to see?
If you’re among the few who haven’t been (lots of Irish accents on Prague streets these days), take Tram 22 from the centre to Pražský head for Prague Castle and its spectacular grounds (ideally book ahead if you want to see inside St Vitus Cathedral and other castle interiors). Then stroll downhill through Malá Strana, across Charles Bridge, and finish in Old Town Square – one of Europe’s most beautiful (Unesco-listed) city centres.
More to Prague than football?
For a bit of culture without any language barriers, the National Theatre stages world-class opera, ballet, and classical music. Art lovers should check out the National Gallery’s Trade Fair Palace, home to major exhibitions, including an excellent selection of modern Czech artists.
The wonderfully geeky National Technical Museum is a personal favourite, particularly its transport hall, which boasts everything from Cold War-era jet planes to Emperor Franz Joseph I’s impeccably preserved railway dining car.
What will the weather be like?
It should be fairly mild, but mad March weather is the same everywhere, so pack as you would for an early-Easter weekend in Ireland.
Should I expect a festive atmosphere?
In a word, no. The Czechs aren’t especially enthused about a team that limped into the playoffs after losing to the Faroe Islands. It’ll be lively before the match around the stadium (most likely Slavia Prague’s Fortuna Arena, which generates a huge roar despite its modest 20,000 capacity), but if you don’t have a ticket, the best place to watch is probably one of the city’s Irish pubs.
For a Czech pub experience, some branches of Lokál usually show matches and serve good versions of traditional dishes, such as svíčková and guláš – best enjoyed with one of the many excellent local beers. Other good places for Czech food: Parlament, Kolkovna, and Červený Jelen.
Is Prague a safe city?
Prague feels genuinely low-risk compared to Dublin, and is consistently ranked among Europe’s safest cities. If anything, you’re far more likely to have your pockets dipped or be ripped off than violently mugged. Use Uber, Bolt, or the excellent local Liftago app instead of street taxis, and mind your belongings in busy places.
Cóilín O’Connor is an Irish journalist, editor, and translator who has lived in Prague since 1995
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