What a fine thing a head of spring cabbage is, all flootery fine with floating leaves and slender stalks, a catwalk cabbage if ever there was one. It follows the great rule of cabbages, also, which is to say that the less you do to it, the better it is.
So, with that in mind, here is one of the great classics, the national dish of Portugal, Caldo Verde. This famous green soup with cabbage, chorizo and potato is usually made with a cabbage which is close in style to spring greens, couve gallego. I like the innovations of the food writer, Annie Bell, who adds a beef tomato and two soy sauces to the standard equation, while removing the sausage.
The recipe is from her excellent Vegetable Book, and if you want to add back in the sausage, then simply slice some chorizo very finely, and add it to the soup a couple of minutes before serving. Caldo Verde is a very good showcase for your best olive oil, and be generous with it.
Caldo Verde
400 g/14 oz spring greens
900 g/2 lbs maincrop potatoes
3 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped
1 beefsteak tomato, peeled, seeded and diced
1.4 litres/two and a half pints water
1 tablespoon light soy sauce
1 tablespoon dark soy sauce
sea salt and freshly ground
black pepper
To serve
extra virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons coarsely chopped coriander
Remove the spring green leaves from their stalks, wrap up firmly in long cigar shapes and slice very finely into grass-like strands. Peel and cube the potatoes and place in a saucepan with the garlic, tomato and water. Bring to the boil and simmer for 15 minutes, then mash to a coarse puree. Add the soy sauces and seasoning.
To serve, add the spring greens, bring back to the boil and simmer for three minutes. Adjust the seasoning and serve in warm bowls with one to two tablespoons of olive oil drizzled over each serving, and a scattering of coriander.