Pink legs, pink wine . . . When summer finally burst through the other week, turning pale complexions into glowing beacons practically overnight, the barometer of drinking desire in our house suddenly changed colour. Tongues were hanging out for rose - very well chilled, very refreshing, very cheerful in a let's-pretend-we're-in-Provence sort of way. Summer just wouldn't be summer at all without at least a few sunny meals out of doors, set off by wine of a ravishing pink.
There are still a lot of people who think it's naff, I know - legions of wine buffs who take their cue from America's description of rose as "blush wines" and squirm at the very thought of uncorking rose. Pink wine, pink cheeks . . . they'd be crimson with embarrassment. You can't altogether blame them. Some mass market roses - Californian blush efforts especially, and quite a number from Anjou - are like alcopops. But it's swishing a smiling baby down the plug-hole with the bathwater to dismiss all roses just because of the nasties.
There have been signs, over the past couple of summers, that sales are picking up - especially at the more discerning end of the market. "We've definitely noticed an upward trend,' says Jim McCabe, whose award-winning and sizeable off-licence in Mount Merrion Avenue is as good a place as any to monitor the likes and dislikes of middle-class wine buyers. `There are now some serious roses. Some seriously good roses. They've changed people's perceptions."
The summer before last, there was fascinating evidence that a regiment of Irish Times readers suddenly became big rose fans. After Chateau de Flaugergues, the best dry rose stocked by Dunnes Stores, had been written up as Bottle of the Week, wine buyer Redmond Gavin telephoned to report that the entire summer stock - more than 10,000 bottles - sold out in a about fortnight. We can't pretend all of it disappeared down our readers' throats, but a buying frenzy on that level does rather suggest that a lot of you tried one bottle, liked it and dashed back for more.
Since then, it's been interesting to see quite a few rose nominations in our Readers' Wine Competitions - further indicating you don't shrink from pink. Maybe this summer you'll grow even more daring? Vivid wines to suit the dazzling, hot-pink 2000 wardrobe, if not necessarily the weather? Remember, we've only got three months, at most, to knock maximum pleasure out of this particular drinking adventure. On a chilly autumn evening, ice-cold wine the colour of strawberry flesh just doesn't cut it.
Rose Rules
KNOW THE TERRITORY: Best way to avoid the sickly sweeties? Be aware of the regions where dry rose is a star. Top points to the south of France, Bordeaux, Spain. Lowest marks to the US and Anjou, where they're still over-fond of residual sugar. Portugal's Mateus Rose, source of much general scepticism about pink, is now just about dry enough to hover above pass level.
CATCH THEM YOUNG; The younger they are when you drink `em, the better. Rose's charms fade faster than a pink bikini. Buy 1999s if you can - failing that, 1998s. Without the bloom of youth, they can seem desperately dull.
MIND YOUR HEAD: They may look harmless, these apparently delicate pinks . . . but keep an eye out for the alcohol content which can often be over 13 per cent. That means one of two things. A degree of restraint - with a sunshine wine that tastes so refreshing you knock it back at speed - or a nightmare headache. Traditionally, Provencal roses are the among the heaviest hitters; but the master of "pink pain" remains Geoff Merrill, the Australian who created Mount Hurtle Grenache Rose for the fun of seeing macho males slump to their knees after a few glasses of "a Sheila's wine". Initially 14.5 per cent, it's now down to 14. Tasty, too - but watch out.
STAY COOL: Rose needs to be really well chilled, partly to keep its abundant, fruity flavours in check, and partly because, with any luck, the sun will be out when it's being drunk, raising the temperature fast.
EAT: One of rose's greatest attractions is the one that's most often overlooked. It works magic with a wide range of foods. Mediterranean-style starters, salads of all sorts, herb-scattered vegetable dishes (especially tomatoes), tuna, salmon, cold meats . . . it's the ideal partner for any of these on a summer table - and good with Chinese food any time.
Pink, With Pleasure
Chateau de Flaugergues Rose, Coteaux du Languedoc La Mejanelle 1999 (Dunnes Stores, £5.99). The one that caused the stampede, and in the current vintage it still offers plenty of straightforward, fruity charm.
Gran Feudo Rosado, Bodegas Julian Chivite, Navarra 1999 (very widely available, usually about £6.50). Look for the tall bottle and the glorious colour - more cranberry than bubblegum pink. This top seller from Spain (where good Garnacha-based rose gets the attention it deserves) has delicious strawberry notes and lively acidity.
Bergerie de l'Hortus Rose de Saignee Pic St Loup 1999 (Wines Direct, £7.15 if you buy a case, which may be mixed). From Jean Orliac, a man who has already given us a brilliantly appetising, summery white and red. A really classy rose - gentle and subtly persistent, it leaves the palate fresh and thirsty for more.
Miguel Torres Santa Digna Cabernet Sauvignon Rose 1999 (widely available, £7.49-£7.99). It takes a Spaniard to get Chile working on its pink potential. Fragrantly fruity, in a blackcurrant and cassis, Cabernet way, this one's relatively rich, but a nice sherbet tang should keep you pouring. Chateau Lacroix Merlot Saignee Rose, Bordeaux 1998/9 (McCabes, Blackrock and Foxrock; Higgins; Clonskeagh; Cheers-Gibneys, Malahide; Kellys Clontarf and some other outlets, usually about £8.50). New to me this year - and it's definitely one to look out for. Enticing summer-pudding aromas lead to a ripe, flavour-packed palate and a long, dry finish. From significant Englishman-about-Bordeaux, Jonathan Malthus.
Chateau de Sours Bordeaux Rose 1999 (many SuperValus/Centras nationwide; Mitchells, Kildare Street and Glasthule; Redmonds, Ranelagh; Vintry, Rathgar; McCabes, Blackrock and Foxrock; Deveneys, Dundrum; Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; Kitchen, Portlaoise; Limerick Fine Wines; O'Donovans, Cork; Vineyard, Galway; Octavius, Sligo and other outlets, usually £9.99). The Queen of Pinks. See Bottle of the Week.