Diners who hunger for the right directions get the seasoned word

As with the Academy Awards, sentimentality played its part in the selection of this year's 100 Best Restaurants in Ireland, the culinary profession's version of the Oscars.

Announcing their latest top 100 yesterday, food writers John and Sally McKenna paid tribute to pioneers in the industry such as Myrtle Allen and Paul Rankin, dare one say, the Judi Dench and Roberto Benigni of Irish cuisine.

With new "icon" and "classic" categories in the guide, their restaurants - Ballymaloe House in Co Cork and Roscoff's in Belfast - are guaranteed entries for many a year to come.

"Instead of consigning them to oblivion," said John McKenna, food critic with The Irish Times, "we wanted to recognise the contribution made by a number of restaurants which, for one reason or another, are not the same as they were five or 10 years ago, but have created a culture which has helped other people to flourish.

"These people have played a huge role in creating a good food culture in Ireland. Rather than copying what the French are doing we now have the confidence to do our own thing."

Over the past year, he said the dining industry had become more competitive in response to greater demands from its clients.

"Customers know what they want nowadays and will vote with their feet. The days of restaurants calling the shots are gone."

Another trend is the spread of good restaurants across a larger geographical area. Nineteen counties in the Republic are mentioned this year.

However, there are still no entries for Cos Laois, Meath, Leitrim, Monaghan, Offaly, Longford or Roscommon.

The latter two counties don't make it into the new 100 Best Places to Stay in Ireland guide either, which, like the restaurant guide, is sponsored by Bridgestone.

Other omissions which catch the attention are fashionable Dublin eateries such as the Commons and, for the second year running, Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud.

Mr McKenna said people now recognised a good meal need not consist of five courses, or "begin with sherry and end with port".

"Customers are more discerning and restaurants have latched on to that. They realise creativity is central not just in relation to cooking but in relation to hospitality. It's hard to define and it's something you can't learn by rote, but you know it when you find it."