The primavera theme is an engaging one. We're growing positively continental in our appreciation of fresh produce in season, organic where possible and bursting with flavour. The perfect wine to welcome in the new season is La Vieille Ferme, Cotes du Ventoux, 1996 (very widely available, £6.49£6.99) - a light, sunny red made from organically cultivated grapes by the Perrin brothers, proprietors of top Chateauneuf-du-Pape property Beaucastel. With super acidity to get the saliva flowing, it will go down well with a vast array of summer foods. And maybe make you dream about Provence while there's still time to go.