If you've travelled halfway around the world, and you have a chance to jump out of an aircraft or to raft through rapids, it would be silly not to take it. You're not getting any younger, after all, writes Cian McCormack
I WIPED THE condensation from the inside of the camper van's window. There was a beautiful scene outside, but it was cold, and my sleeping bag was failing to fight the chill of the morning air. The first snow had arrived the night before, sneaking in at the end of summer to dab the mountains surrounding Wanaka, a lakeside resort on New Zealand's South Island, with white highlights.
A woman in the camper van next door, whose teeth were chattering, said: "It's too early for snow. It's global warming." I could do with global warming, I thought, pulling my sleeping bag around my neck.
Above me, in a coffinlike space, my friend Martin Whelan hissed and snored loudly, as he had every night before that. Paul Hassett, a lifelong friend, wasn't moving on the van's right side. He was lying on his stomach, pretending to be asleep. He didn't like talking too much in the mornings.
This was our second week together. Jammed together, travelling hundreds of kilometres, breathing the same air, eating the same food, sharing the same words - not one of them cross, angry or vexed.
Before hitting the road we had spent some time with friends in Foxton, a town on North Island. Nick Aungiers, an old guitar-playing friend from Nenagh, in Co Tipperary, his wife, Jill, and children, Jimi and Jazz, moved there two years ago for a better quality of life.
There's definitely a slower pace in Foxton. Shops still close on Sundays, people salute you randomly from the side of the road and Jimi, who is seven, cycles to school safely every day.
But behind its charm New Zealand is raw and rural. It has awesome landscapes veined by roads that meander through coarse Wild West-style towns, whose timber buildings have galvanised-steel roofs, and which lack the architectural wonders offered by some other New World destinations.
There's a lack of identity and a sense of isolation, not just in the physical landscape but also in the people. They're friendly, always helpful, but never seem sure about their exact place in the world.
We spent most of our first week hanging around Foxton, drinking coffee and shaking off jet lag after our long journey from Dublin via London, Bangkok and Sydney.
But we also rented a car for day trips to, among other places, Tongariro National Park, which has wonderful hikes, such as one to Waitonga Falls.
And then there were the jam sessions in a panel beater's workshop with rockers, bikers, drums, guitars, broken cars and eardrum-bursting guitar riffs and drumbeats.
At the beginning of the second week we left Wellington by ferry and travelled to Picton, on South Island, where we jumped on the TranzCoastal train to Christchurch. Although a bit on the pricey side, the journey takes you through magnificent landscapes and South Pacific seascapes edged by beautiful and sometimes unusually coloured skies.
We were shocked when we picked up our camper van in Christchurch. The white Hiace had 350,000km on its clock, and although the rental company assured us it would fit three, it would have been more suitable for two bendy yogis.
Going to bed involved a ritual. The first bed-bound traveller would undress and squeeze into his part of the van while the other two waited outside, swatting savage sandflies that were intent on a double feast of pasty Paddy skin.
Our objective on South Island was to ensure that Martin did every adrenalin-pumping activity he could. "I'll be 40 in September," he said. "If I don't do it now I never will."
That's how he rationalised jumping from planes and platforms. Paul and I knew we didn't have to commit to anything similar for at least another eight years.
From Christchurch we travelled, like three sardines, to the west coast, stopping in Queenstown, Wanaka and Milford Sound before making our way back to Dunedin and Christchurch.
I stopped at Franz Josef for a glacier walk. Paul and Martin made their way to Wanaka to skydive. The glacier was impressive, but we were hiking too slowly to get as far up the ice as we had hoped.
In the aftermath of their skydives Paul and Martin were buzzing like children who had just performed in their first school play. They kept saying "dude" and "excellent". Besides that, they didn't talk much. They just smiled and vowed to do it all again.
They did phone their girlfriends back in Ireland, to boast of their bravery and, of course, explain how they'd jumped from an aircraft at 4,250m (14,000ft) with men strapped to their backs on St Valentine's Day.
A ledge swing, a bungee jump and two skydives between the three of us: we left New Zealand like three oozing balls of adrenalin. But there was one moment, days before we left, as we were kayaking through rapids on North Island, when everything was put into perspective.
We liked New Zealand.
"I think I'll do this again," said Paul.
"What? Kayak?" I replied.
"No, come back to New Zealand," he said.
"Definitely," I said. "But I'm waiting till I'm 40."
• Cian McCormack is an RTÉ radio journalist
Go there
A number of airlines fly to New Zealand on a variety of routes. Air New Zealand flies via Heathrow and Los Angeles, and British Airways via Heathrow and Sydney, fares from €1,400. Specialist travel agencies for New Zealand include
www.utravel.ie,
www.trailfinders.com,
www.austravel.ie,
www.justsplit.comand
www.australia.ie
Where to go, what to do and what to avoid in New Zealand
Where to go
Milford Sound Known in Maori as Piopiotahi, Milford Sound fjord is one of New Zealand's best-known sights. Boat trips run several times a day. The drive to Milford Sound involves winding mountain roads. If you don't like the sound of that, several tour companies organise transport from Queenstown and Te Anau. www.newzealand.com.
Hidden Valley This is one of North Island's most interesting attractions. Getting there involves a two-minute boat trip on the Waikato River between Rotorua and Taupo. Hidden Valley, aka Orakei Korako, has hot springs, boiling mud pools, mineral deposits and geysers. If you plan to spend some of your trip in Rotorua, Hidden Valley is only a 45-minute drive from there. www.orakeikorako.co.nz.
What to do
Take the TranzCoastal trainThe journey between Picton and Christchurch has fantastic views, with the Kaikoura mountain range on one side of the train and the South Pacific coastline on the other. Book ahead. www.tranzscenic.co.nz.
Bungee jumpKiwis call New Zealand the home of bungee jumping. Some of the less intimidating jumps are in Queenstown, provided by AJ Hackett. www.bungy.co.nz.
SkydiveIf you're going to skydive, you may as well do it with a fantastic panoramic view. Skydive Lake Wanaka's packages include videos and photographs of your jump. www.skydivenz.com.
Go white-water raftingLots of companies offer trips. River Valley, which runs trips along the Rangitikei River for 145 New Zealand dollars (€70), also has a lodge that offers horse riding. www.rivervalley.co.nz.
See a Maoiri showYou'll experience Maori culture, hear Maori songs and eat traditional Maori food. It's a bit like going to a medieval banquet at Bunratty Castle, as it's touristy, great for kids and a little bit cheesy.
What to avoid
SandfliesBuy local repellent or endure itchy bites on your feet, arms and legs, especially if you visit Milford Sound. Otherwise, bring 100 per cent Deet-based products. Nothing else will do.
Late bookingsIf you hang around before making up your mind about a camper van, you could be left with a limited choice, especially during peak season. We paid €700 to rent a three-person Hiace for 10 days. www.tuicampers.co.nz.
OverambitionDon't try to travel too far in any one day. You may cover a lot of ground, but you won't see much of New Zealand.