Football in the Florentine style

EVEN THE MOST sporting spectator would admit that a game only gets more interesting when a fight breaks out. That’s why calcio storico is such compulsive viewing

for anyone lucky enough to be in Florence to see it.

A mix between soccer, bare-knuckle boxing and mud wrestling, the three-match calcio storicoleague takes place in the third week of June.

Thought to originate from Roman army training manoeuvres, the game is played by costumed teams representing the city’s four historic quarters, and the rivalry is intense.

Events kick off with a grand parade through the streets, featuring horses, standard bearers and drummers (pictured), followed by local dignitaries and, bringing up the rear, the hoi polloi.

With much pomp they make their way to Piazza Santa Croce, which, for the occasion, has been turned into a giant sand box. Then all hell breaks loose.

Each team consists of 27 players arranged in three rows, with the full width of the pitch on either end being the goal. And that’s about it as far as rules go.

Headbutting, punching, elbowing and choking are all fair game. Only kicks to the head are considered below the belt, so to speak.

Originally played by local aristos, the game can now be played by anyone without a criminal record.

It takes six referees to manage a melee in which contestants in pantaloons and silk tunics pull lumps out of each other. Being Italian, however, no matter how dirty the play, it all ends up in hugs and kisses. Bravo.

• calciostorico.it