Life's a beach for MANCHáN MAGAN
MAGAN'S WORLD:I WAS CARRYING an injured duckling to the river a few weeks ago when Go rang me wanting to know my favourite strand. I had to put the duckling down to think about it. She was in an old Eircom envelope so that she wouldn't bite me and she looked up dolefully through the address window, as I set about trying to work out the prerequisites of a perfect strand – great sand, good bars, big waves, friendly locals, fresh fish, safe currents, and so on.
There were so many variables that I thought I would have to make out a spreadsheet, but the journalist was anxious for an answer and the duck, with its sad, glossy eye pressed against the greaseproof paper window, seemed equally keen that I hurry up and get back to what really mattered. So, I
answered with the first thing that came to mind – “Playa de Las Arenas, past the village of Veulta at the bottom of Valle de Gran Rey on La Gomera.”
“Really?” she said (the journalist, not the duck) with what at first I thought was a hint of suspicion, as though she might have guessed I had made it up on the spot and was actually more concerned with an ailing drake than her question... Wait there, I’m lying. I have no idea why she said “really” the way she did. Why must writers always have profound insights into the motivations of others?
Anyway, I thought nothing more about it, until two weeks ago when I saw the story with a quote from me about how “my all time favourite strand is Playa de las Arenas”.
As I read the piece I was overcome with guilt at the memory of all the other strands I have loved but had not mentioned. They returned to me as the day wore on, reproaching me, and I realised I would have to make amends. But what chance was there of another journalist ever ringing me to ask for my favourite strands?
So, here goes. In first place is still Playa de las Arenas, mainly because it has given me great bursts of creativity on a few occasions. Second place goes to the tiny cove beaches of Miramar, near Guaymas on the Sea of Cortez in Sonora, Mexico. The water there is warm, without being too warm; the waves are perfectly sized and there is no worrisome current. The smaller, hidden coves are the nicest but a local would have to show you how to get to them. It's well worth the 15-hour drive south from the California/Arizona border, even during the holidays when the place is overrun with Norteamericanos.
In third place comes the crystal clear waters off the islet of Maskin, off the island of Crveni Otok, off Rovinj in Istria. The blueness of the water off the pine-covered rocks is almost visceral in its intensity. The fact that clothing is optional, as in Playa de las Arenas, is another benefit.
In fourth place is Trá an Fhíona, Ballyferriter, Dingle Peninsula – a neat, crescent-shaped beach on Smerick Harbour with big waves but not dangerously big, like they are on Coumeenoole Beach on Slea Head.
Fifth and final place goes to the home of the little duckling, who didn’t survive her ordeal, I’m afraid. She was born on Lough Lene, Co Westmeath, where the strand is simply called The Cut. It was Ireland’s first inland Blue Flag beach and has, now that I think of it, the three most vital elements for any great strand: super clean water, interesting scenery (not just endless palm trees) and a pleasing shape. On a calm, dull day when the water looks like a vast mirror, as crystalline as any Nordic fiord, there is no finer place.