Laid-back Grenada

Waving palms, underwater sculptures, erratic driving, locals who will talk for hours: you will never be bored in Grenada, writes PAMELA DUNCAN

THE POWERBOAT zips along the azure ocean at a speed wholly out of sync with the lifestyle of the island of Grenada, which we view from the water.

There, where the pastel houses dot the hillsides, the atmosphere could not be more relaxed. Almost in defiance of the laid-back pace on land, Howard Clarke, our UK-born captain and owner of Grenada Seafaris, takes the opportunity, without any encouragement from his passengers to accelerate into a series of figures of eight whipping up a refreshing breeze.

Not that the temperature in Grenada is unbearable. Year-round temperatures fluctuate between 24 and 30 degrees and the tiny country is cooled by the northeast trade winds. But as the rays of the sun are reflected off the ocean around us, the breeze is very welcome.

So is the coolness of the sea as we slip from the side of the boat into the Caribbean, flippers flapping as we go.

Just yards from our jumping-off point, we see the first of the underwater sculptures that have become a draw for the country since their creator, Jason deCaires Taylor, came up with the concept of merging his love of scuba-diving with art and immersed the sculptures in Molinere Bay off the west coast of Grenada.

There is something eerie yet fascinating about the underwater figures, some of which have already been wholly reclaimed by the coral, creating new underwater ecosystems. It’s a strange irony, as if the coral is avenging itself on the human forms below the water’s surface. Some have suffered more than others from the ravages of the sea. The most photographed of the Grenadian sculptures, the Circle of Children, has been particularly badly hit. However, the artist is due to return later this year, if local businesses are successful in their fundraising attempts, to install a heavier and more durable replacement.

Local guide Albert Christopher uses his diving knowledge to take us to the figures. They add to what is already a vibrant underwater gallery in which vast shoals of small fish dart around trying to avoid the preying jacks while yellow fin tuna slide lazily beneath us. We were paddling but those who wish to examine the sculptures up close might be advised to scuba dive to get a closer look.

Afterwards in the natural harbour of Grenada’s capital, St George’s, Christopher gives some indication of the devastation caused by Hurricane Ivan.

When it hit in 2004, the hurricane damaged or destroyed 90 per cent of homes, killed 39 people, decimated crops and paralysed the local economy. It came as a huge shock to the 100,000-strong population who had long thought they were below the hurricane belt. Even now most people still speak in hushed tones about what was for most of them the worst experience in living memory. But while newly cautious of the true force of nature, they also have great pride in their defiance and at how quickly the country was rebuilt.

Today it is hard to envisage the devastation that Ivan left in its wake.

Christopher also points to the spot where on October 22nd, 1961, the Bianca C, an Italian cruise liner, caught fire at the entrance to the harbour at St George's. The local community rallied to organise a flotilla, which rescued all but three of the passengers and crew. For weeks the survivors, who were mainly Italians, were forced remain in Grenada, many of them staying with locals with whom they did not even share a common language.

The legacy of the Grenadian rescue and their ensuing hospitality is commemorated by the Christ of the Deep statue at the harbour, presented to the Grenadian people by the Italian government. The cruise liner, which was sunk two days later off Point Salines, is a major attraction for scuba divers. Indeed the island is known as the dive capital of the West Indies.

On the winding roads of Grenada, there are certain unwritten rules of the road that are generally followed. Larger vehicles have right of way, traffic lights are merely a suggestion and car horns are used not just in conjunction with, but frequently in place of, brakes. It is best to remember to beep your horn when approaching a corner (drivers seem to prefer the centre of the road) or when overtaking. Keep in mind that it is local tradition to beep as you pass by a friend’s house and that road rage is uncommon among a people this laid-back.

Hiring a jeep is a great way to see the island and costs about €60 per day with insurance, plus a once-off payment of €8.50 for a Grenadian driver’s licence.

The other option is to jump on the frequent mini-buses that ferry the island’s inhabitants from one spot to another. This can lead to many a long conversation with the mainly affable, gregarious and fun-loving Grenadians.

However, there is no fear of those who hire a vehicle missing out either. Grenadians will go out of their way to help a lost-looking tourist. I suspect some locals deliberately sabotage road signs – which are few and far between to begin with – just so that they can chat with tourists. The biggest trouble with asking for directions here is that it may take more time to stop and chat than it does to find your way yourself.

Even if you don’t have a specific destination in mind, it is worth taking a trip around the main island as a new slice of paradise appears around every corner: postcard-perfect palm trees swaying in the coastal breeze; the lush rainforest at the centre of the main island; or the bustling market towns along the way.

You can swim in pools beneath waterfalls, such as Concord Falls, which wouldn’t be out of place in a Bounty commercial, or visit Grand Etang park and call in on a few of the Mona monkeys, although you should take heed of one local’s advice: “If you don’t bring bananas they will look at you funny”.

Driving is also a good way to get a glimpse of the different social levels on which Grenadians live. Balconied mansions and more modest but well-appointed medium-sized houses share the same strip as modest homes that are little bigger than huts.

Every few hundred yards multicoloured shacks housing shops and road-side bars draw groups of people “liming”, in other words hanging around. It is par for the course in a country with a staggering unemployment rate of almost 30 per cent, according to estimates, although there are those who say the rate is even higher.

High unemployment can be at least partly attributed to Hurricane Ivan and the huge impact it had on the country’s agricultural industry. Grenada once provided between one quarter and one third of the world’s nutmeg supply, however production has been severely disrupted by the force of the hurricane and, although the trees have been re-sown, the country will not reach its pre-Ivan nutmeg yield for years to come.

Cocoa is another big export and at Belmont Estate on the east of the island visitors can get a firsthand glimpse at where some of the chocolate we eat in such abundance originates. Visitors are also invited to put their best foot forward in helping to “walk the cocoa”, which literally involves getting onto the huge drying trays filled with cocoa beans and turning them over with your feet. This is done every half an hour in daylight to dry the beans.

Of course the Caribbean is also well known for its rum. For those who wish to see how the national drink of Grenada has been created for centuries, then the River Antoine rum distillery near Grenville is a must. The distillery is like a time machine taking tourists back more than 200 years.

An ancient water mill is still in operation powering the cane press to extract juices from sugar cane before the 10-day fermentation process begins.

Although not all the rum produced here is made in quite such a traditional way, the next time you sit sipping a cold rum cocktail on a warm Grenadian beach, it will taste even more like paradise.

Grenada where to . . .

History

English-speaking Grenada in the West Indies is best known for two events: the first was the US invasion in 1983 following the assassination of prime minister Maurice Bishop. The second was the devastation wrought by Hurricane Ivan on September 7th, 2004, which killed 39 people and damaged or destroyed 90 per cent of homes. Aside from that, it is no harm to know your cricket and to drop the name Kirani James – the up-and-coming sprinter who Grenadians have dubbed the next Usain Bolt – into any given conversation.

Things to do

Scuba diving, snorkelling and yachting are all a big draw, but there is plenty to do on land with agri-tourism spots such as Belmont Estate, River Antoine Rum Distillery and Gouyave Nutmeg Factory. Sightseeing on the main island is a must, while the nation’s two smaller populated islands, Carriacou and Petite Martinique, will ensure a packed itinerary. Do spend some time on the beaches and eating the varied and delicious food.

Places to eat

Good Food in Grenville is a family run business which has expanded to two premises. It does exactly what it says: provides good food. A proper slice of down-to-earth Grenadian cuisine. Try the “dolphin” salad – local dialect for Mahi Mahi and not the Flipper version – for a light but delicious bite. It also serves “Oil Down”, Grenada’s national dish on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays.

The Aquarium is the local choice for a place to eat on a Sunday when they serve up barbecue dishes with a selection of sides or a salad buffet. Arrive early to enjoy stunning beach scenery and to buddy up to the turtles that reside in the restaurant’s rock pool.

The Dodgy Dock is a laidback restaurant and bar at a small marina at True Blue. It’s a popular lunch-spot, provides evening entertainment and holds a “sundown” happy hour from 5pm to 6pm daily, all with a friendly smile from the welcoming staff.

Places to stay

Blue Horizons is a five-minute walk from Grand Anse and has 32 rooms, 24 of which fall into the better-appointed deluxe suites category. The rooms are on the hillside of this garden resort and overlook the Caribbean sea below with a swimming pool, poolside bar and restaurant on site.

Beach chairs on Grand Anse and free green fees for Grenada’s nine-hole golf club are included in the price. grenadabluehorizons.com

Petite Anse Hotel near Sauteurs is in an even more beautiful setting than the more tourist heavy Grand Anse beach. You can visit it to eat at the resort’s balcony restaurant or stay at the hotel. The beach-front hotel has 11 rooms set in a tropical garden each with its own balcony and spectacular views of Grenada’s second island, Carriacou, and the Grenadines. petiteansehotel.com

Spice Island Beach Resort on Grande Anse (pictured) is opulence defined. The level of service in this five-star plus hotel speaks for itself, while one breakfast spent gawping at the turquoise Carribean will quickly put the five-star price tag into perspective. A glass of the “classic”, the hotel’s signature cocktail, and a cold towel await you on arrival. Even the foyer is a picture, a pristine white bandstand framing the white sands and vast blue ocean that lie behind it. All of the hotel’s 64 suites are within 100 yards from Grand Anse beach while some open straight onto the sand. Seventeen other suites have their own pools, and some have private saunas while every suite in the complex has a whirlpool bath.

spiceislandbeachresort.com

* Pamela Duncan was a guest of Spice Island Beach Resort. Prices, based on two adults sharing an Oleander suite on half-board basis and return flights from London Gatwick with Monarch Airlines in Economy plus all resort transfers, start at £1,345 (€1,520) per person.

grenadagrenadines.com