GREAT DRIVES - A20 Newtownards to Portaferry IRELAND'S LANDSCAPE, I am constantly reminded, is incredibly varied. There are the roads through areas of well-known natural beauty, then there are those that have to be sought out and, finally, there are the roads we travel daily. With the latter it is necessary to take a step back to truly appreciate their natural beauty.
Now, I’m not for one moment suggesting that those drivers whose daily commute takes them along the eastern shore of Strangford Lough don’t appreciate its wonderful character – just that you need to step back to gain a true appreciation of what a wonderful drive this is.
Even on the dull and overcast day we chose (for once a rare occasion on this Irish summer) to drive from Newtownards to Portaferry, this is a route to surprise and delight.
The whole Ards Peninsula separates Strangford Lough from the sea and in doing so creates a wonderfully varied place. The lough itself is a designated area of special scientific interest and its mudflats and salt marshes provide a safe haven for many migratory birds.
There are also a number of places of special interest along this route, the first of which is Mount Stewart. This is the 98-acre estate of the Londonderry family and the 18th century house contains a magnificent art collection.
As interesting as these are, it is the World Heritage Garden – planted as a ‘green fairyland’ by Edith, Lady Londonderry, in the 1920s, and which ranks as one of Ireland’s great gardens – which will impress the most. I have to admit that as one with little or no interest in ornate gardens, I still found it a fantastic cornucopia of plant life and a must-see.
A little further along the A20 is the village of Grey Abbey, which takes its name from the 12th century Cistercian monastery now in ruins and regarded as one of the finest examples of Anglo-Norman ecclesiastical architecture on the island of Ireland.
The ruins are fully accessible to the public and well worth the short detour. The village of Grey Abbey itself has many antique shops.
Continuing along the A20 towards Portaferry there are many views over the lough to the multitude of small islands on the western side, before the road passes through the village of Kircubbin and a short while later goes inland, although almost never out of sight of the lough, for a couple of kilometres before entering Portaferry.
Portaferry contains a castle built on a rocky outcrop by Sir Roland Savage around 1500 to guard the entrance to Strangford Lough.
Today, it’s a pleasant small town that’s served by a regular car ferry from the town of Strangford, visible about two kilometres across the mouth of Strangford Lough.
The ferry offers as a journey-saving route to Downpatrick and on to Newry. The neck of the lough, between Portaferry and Strangford, is shaped like a venturi and, as a consequence, speeds up the flow of water into and out of Strangford Lough.
At times when the tide is turning this can produce strong eddies and even whirlpools easily visible from the ferry.
This is a route not to be rushed: you should enjoy its natural and man-made variety. Allow yourself plenty of time, as there’s much to see that’s worthwhile.