Eating inThe cold days mean it's time for comfort food, writes Hugo Arnold
Mash comforts like a warm blanket. It's homely and makes you think everything will be all right, which is just as well as the days get colder.
Old-fashioned mash is made with full-cream milk and a little butter, using fluffy, floury potatoes that will absorb the liquid, such as Golden Wonder, King Edward, Maris Piper or Rooster. Modern variations might include mustard, pesto, horseradish or Parmesan. (Don't add mustard or horseradish until the last minute, as their fire dies away quickly when they're heated.)
A hand masher is perfect for traditional, slightly lumpy mash; if you need a smoother finish, try a food mill. Buy as large a one as possible; smaller models clog easily. Don't use a food processor; it will make starchy, gluey mash.Recipes serve four
SPINACH MEATBALLS AND MASH
250g minced pork
50g streaky bacon
250g pork liver
1 onion, peeled and finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, peeled, chopped and minced with salt
250g spinach, washed and roughly chopped
1 dsp finely chopped sage
2 eggs
oil for frying
1 400g tin chopped tomatoes
500ml light chicken stock
1kg floury potatoes
150ml full-cream milk
50g butter
Ask your butcher to mince the three meats together. Combine with the onion, garlic, spinach, sage and eggs. Season generously and form into balls, using a teaspoon dipped in water and the palm of your hand.
Heat four tablespoons of oil and lightly saute the meatballs in batches until just brown. Add the tomatoes and stock, return all the meatballs and simmer for 30-40 minutes or until cooked.
Peel and cook the potatoes in plenty of salted water until tender. Drain and mash, add the milk and butter and whisk to a smooth consistency. Season with salt and plenty of pepper. Serve with the meatballs.
BLACK PUDDING MASH
450g maincrop potatoes, peeled
2-3 tbsp milk or cream
50g butter
200g black pudding, cubed
Cut the potatoes into large, evenly-sized pieces. Boil in plenty of salted water until tender (about 15-20 minutes). Drain well and return to the hot pan. Add the milk or cream and, using a masher or hand-held whisk, mash the potatoes. A masher will give a rougher texture than an electric whisk, but this is a matter of taste. Add the butter and continue to beat until the mixture is fluffy. Season with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper.
Gently saute the black pudding in a dry frying pan over a moderate heat until just crispy on the outside (about five minutes). Stir into the mash and check seasoning. Serve.