Pifko – which means "pint" in the Czech Republic – is a particularly good spot for lagers in Dublin. On the corner of Usher's Quay, it's brownish façade, admittedly, is not the most enticing but the beers inside certainly make up for it.

Imported from the Czech Republic and Slovakia, their range of fresh, high-quality offerings will charm even the least enthusiastic lager drinkers – or certainly question their convictions.

I started with Jedenactka by Kacov Brewery, a light lager of 4.4 per cent. This has the clean and crisp characteristics of the Czech lager style but with a little more hop and grainy aroma. The Kacov Original Lager, 4.7 per cent, has a fuller body and is made with Zatec hops and Moravia malt and, like the Jedenactka, is a very drinkable and balanced beer.

The winner on the night was Kacov’s Tamave, a 5.8 per cent dark lager, with hints of caramel, it’s smooth but light-bodied to maintain the balance and crispness of a lager.

Roasted flavours

Dark lagers almost seem like an anomaly, we’re so used to the golden versions of the style – but there’s plenty of tasty ones about.

The German Schwarzbier is crisp, dry with roasted flavours and medium bitterness and ranges usually between 4.5-5 per cent. The Baltic Porter is more complex and higher in alcohol.

The Germans also do a good line in big lagers called bocks, which are often rich and malty. For a real treat, try Maisel and Friends Marc’s Chocolate Bock – a 7.5 per cent dark lager described as an “interpretation of an Irish stout”.

Or just head to Pifko and broaden your lager horizons – and order a Klobasa sausage with mustard and bread while you’re at it.

Next week: Craft lagers

@ITbeerista beerista@irishtimes.com