German wines with a Gaelic twist

The secret to Würzburg wines is look for the words Stein or Leiste on the labels

I TRY TO AVOID writing about unknown wines that have limited availability, but there are times when the wines deserve it. I feel the wines of Würzburg fall into that category. For me, they have been some of the most exciting wines I have come across over the past few years, and I wish more Irish people knew about them. There is a certain Irish connection, too.

Cork wine merchant Joe Karwig tells a story of visiting Würzburg in 1989 with the late Dr John O’Connell, one of Cork’s great wine aficionados. Every street in the entire German city was bedecked with the Irish tricolour. A local informed him that it was the start of a festival celebrating the patron saint of Würburg, St Killian. Visiting one of the wineries, they were invited to stay on for a concert by The Dubliners later that evening. Sadly both had to depart before the concert. Killian was a 7th century Irish missionary bishop who brought Christianity to Franconia.

My own initial experience with the wines of Würzburg was less positive. Many years ago, I remember cursing the distinctively-shaped bocksbeutel bottle, piles of which came crashing down each time I tried to arrange them neatly lying down on a shelf. Later I tried the wine, which was quite unlike anything I had tasted before, but to my untutored palate was very dry and a bit tasteless.

Fast forward a few years, and while doing some consultancy work for a supermarket group, I came across a pile of the same bottles in a corner of the tasting room. The wine buyer laughed dismissively at them, and said a rep had dropped them in. He urged me to take them home. I took him up on his suggestion, and spent a very happy few weeks working my way through some of the most wonderfully fresh, light white wines I had ever tasted. Sadly, they were not then available in this country. A few years later I came across the same Joe Karwig, who was now importing the wines. Not only that, but as Würzburg was twinned with Bray, Co Wicklow, a town very close to where I live, efforts were being made to have them available there.

The city of Würzburg in the centre of Franken in Bavaria, is apparently one of the great baroque cities. A wide variety of different grapes are grown, but it is Riesling and Silvaner that stand out as special. Both are crisp, light and delicate, but with a wonderful razor-sharp purity of fruit. Riesling is one of the great grapes, but you won’t come across much Silvaner anywhere else. Alsace produces a little, as do other parts of Germany, but Franken (or Franconia) takes it to a new level. There are a number of small estates, but the biggest players, who all make excellent wine, are the three ancient ecclesiastical and civic charities, the Juliuspital (church) Staatliche Hofkelerie (Bavarian State) and the city (Bürgerspital).

The most famous vineyards of Würzburg are Stein and Leiste, both of which lie within the city. The best bottles will have these names on their label.

This is one of the most long-lived wines; apparently a sample from 1540 was still drinkable in the 1960s. The bocksbeutel came into being in 1500, and is unique to the area, although it did provide the inspiration for Mateus Rosé. The Bürgerspital is one of the oldest and most important estates in Germany. The profits from wine sales fund a local home for the elderly.

BOTTLES OF THE WEEK

Bürgerspital Würzburger Stein Riesling Kabinett Trocken 2008, 12%, €19.99

Fresh and lively with zingy green apple fruits and a light spritz. Perfect with crab salad, or fishcakes. Stockists: Holland’s, Bray; Karwig Wines, Carrigaline and karwigwines.ie; Eugene’s of Kenmare; Cases Wine Warehouse, Galway.

Bürgerspital Würzburger Pfaffenberg Silvaner Trocken 2007, 11.5%, €17.99 Lovely light melon fruits with a delicious, subtle spiciness and a clean dry finish. Try it with lighter fish dishes. Stockists: Holland’s, Bray; Karwig Wines, Carrigaline and karwigwines.ie; Eugene’s of Kenmare; Cases Wine Warehouse.

TWO UNDER €12

San Pedro Castillo de Molina Viognier 2007, 14.5%, €11.99

Just the sort of white wine you need for colder weather. Relatively full-bodied with rich peach fruits and plenty of refreshing acidity. This would go nicely with chicken and salmon dishes. Stockists: Dunnes Stores, nationwide; The Corkscrew, Chatham Street, Dublin 2; Fresh, Grand Canal Basin, Dublin 2; On The Grapevine, Dalkey, Co Dublin; Morton’s, Ranelagh, Dublin 6; Kelly’s, Clontarf, Dublin 3; Thomas Martin, Fairview, Dublin 3; Brady’s Off-Licence, Shankill, Co Dublin.

Artiga Old Vines Garnacha 2007, Campo de Borj 14%, €13.99

This is another great-value wine from Campo de Borja in north-eastern Spain. Big rich and full of red berry fruits, this smooth and supple wine slips down all to easily. Try it with grilled pork and lamb. Stockists: Dunnes Stores, Nationwide.

jwilson@irishtimes.com