New look for Paul Costelloe

During the previous decade, Paul Costelloe's clothes became associated with high-profile, high-fashion women including the late Diana, Princess of Wales. But in the 1990s, Paul Costelloe seemed to lose his way, become less sure of his customer and more conservative in his approach. The result, on more than one occasion, was a collection relying more on past than present glories.

Last autumn, the Paul Costelloe company was bought by textile giant Silk Industries plc, which immediately brought in a new chief executive, Ian Herbert, formerly of Calvin Klein and Guess Inc. In turn, Herbert introduced a team of no less than 10 designers to work with Paul Costelloe who, until now, has been almost single-handedly responsible for everything in this field. The sense of movement within the business was palpable as a new, revamped Paul Costelloe prepared to make its debut last Friday at London Fashion Week.

Sensibly, Costelloe and Herbert have kept the existing two labels - Paul Costelloe, which has an essentially urban, tailored character, and its sportier, more country-oriented partner Dressage - but have added a third. Recognising that the younger end of the market was neglected, this season sees the arrival of Costelloe, a range of clothing which is aimed at women aged from 20-plus. Everyone in the new design team is under 30, with studio head Emma Churchill coming from Sonia Rykiel in Paris; essentially, therefore they are prospective Costelloe clients.

Obviously at this end of the fashion spectrum, price is crucial. Costelloe the label will be worn by young professional women who also shop at Jigsaw, Whistles and Principles. Accordingly, the most expensive items, well-tailored suiting, will be priced at £250-£300, with coats slightly less, dresses around £100 and shirts £69-79. These are not throwaway one-season pieces, but the kind of clothes looking for a long-term place in the wardrobe.

They are fresh and fun but also hard-working and practical when necessary. While a suit may be perfect for the office, it can be teamed with a boiled wool sweater for more relaxed occasions. Satin shift dresses are one option for evenings, another is a ruched sparkly tank top. Colours tend to be at the darker end of the spectrum, including fashion's current favourite grey, buy relieved by flashes of pink and violet.

Nor is this youthful approach confined to women. Costelloe for men has also been created with a similar identity. Again, the emphasis is on the contemporary and casual, thanks to the inclusion of pieces such as unstructured jackets, fine guage knits and wide-legged trousers. This range, like its female equivalent, is designed to complement the existing Paul Costelloe menswear line of suiting, shirts, ties and coats. So, even if the designer is perceived as Irish fashion's grand old man, from now on he will also appear to have a younger sibling.

Paul Costelloe's autumn/winter collections for both men and women are now available at selected retailers throughout the country.