Gimme a steak - and hold the queso

A sign in a Philadelphia cafe telling customers to speak only English has sparked a debate on freedom of speech, writes David Zucchino

The sign contains just eight words and is hardly big enough to wrap around a cheesesteak. But here in south Philadelphia, home of the cheesesteak, the sign that Joey Vento posted at Geno's Steaks speaks volumes.

It reads: "This is America. When ordering please SPEAK ENGLISH."

Vento, whose Italian grandparents arrived in the US unable to speak English, faces a discrimination complaint from the city's Commission on Human Relations, which says the English-only sign may violate city laws. At a time when illegal immigration has become a divisive national issue, the tiny sign has sharpened the debate in a neighbourhood founded by Italian immigrants.

"Hey, what happened to freedom of speech?" customer Al Buck asked last week, clutching a hot cheesesteak and sporting a T-shirt with a red-white-and-blue message: "Welcome to America - now speak English."

Vento (66) has said the sign is aimed at illegal immigrants in a community where the Mexican population has grown in recent years.

City councillor Jim Kenney has called the sign "divisive and mean-spirited", not to mention "bad for the neighbourhood and bad for tourism". The Philadelphia Convention and Visitors Bureau, concerned about the city's image, reminded everyone that the city values immigrants' "culture, vibrancy and history".

A Philadelphia Inquirer editorial called Vento's policy "boneheaded", which may explain why he is no longer speaking to the newspaper, or any newspaper.

"The papers twisted his words," said his son, Geno Vento, working the counter at lunchtime. Joey Vento was taking the day off, his son said, "resting his vocal cords" after a marathon round of TV interviews. Asked for a comment on the situation, Geno Vento replied: "This whole thing is getting out of hand."

The Commission on Human Relations will determine whether the sign violates the city's Fair Practices Act, said city solicitor Romulo L Diaz. If so, Diaz said, the city code calls for fines or imprisonment for failure to comply - though the commission normally tries to resolve issues without sanctions.

The local American Civil Liberties Union (ACLU) chapter has staked out a middle ground.

"Putting up a sign saying you need to speak English is protected speech," said Mary Catherine Roper, an ACLU staff attorney in Philadelphia. But refusing service based on language or nationality would violate the law, she added.

Anthony Marconni, who was helping Geno Vento serve cheesesteaks, said no customer has been turned away.

"We serve everybody. We're not discriminating against anybody," he said.

Back when Joey Vento was speaking to newspapers, he told the Inquirer that illegal Mexican immigrants had brought diseases and crime, and were a drain on hospitals and schools. It's "wrong, wrong, wrong that a Mexican girl comes here to pop a baby", the paper quoted Vento as saying. "I say what everybody's thinking but is afraid to say."

Vento, who has "Geno's Steaks" tattooed on his arm, has also posted "Speak English" signs on his Hummer. According to the Inquirer, he has driven through south Philadelphia with a PA system chastising businesses that hire illegal immigrants. Vento said the sign, which he posted about six months ago, was intended to improve communication.

"If you can't tell me what you want, I can't serve you," he said.

Over the last quarter of a century, south Philadelphia has been transformed from an Italian-American enclave to a melting pot of whites, blacks, Vietnamese, Cambodians and Hispanics. Right next door to Geno's is a Vietnamese-owned hoagie (submarine sandwich) shop. Two doors down is La Lupe, a taqueria that serves $2 (€1.58) grilled pork tacos.

The lunchtime I was in town, there were two diners at La Lupe and a smattering of customers at the hoagie shop. The line at Geno's, meanwhile, spilled into the street and blocked the sidewalk, serenaded by speakers that played God Bless America and the Marine Corps hymn. Several customers said they had dropped in just to have a look at the sign. It was difficult to spot amid the photos of celebrities who have downed Geno's cheesesteaks (Bill Clinton, Rudolph Giuliani, Shaquille O'Neal), the police and firefighter badges, and patriotic posters, including one with the words "Proud to Be an American."

Lan Le, (38), a Newport Beach, California resident who was gnawing on a Geno's cheesesteak, said she spoke no English when she arrived in the US from Vietnam aged 11. Her husband, Roman Le, said he spoke no English when he arrived from Germany aged six.

"If people come to America, they ought to learn English, like I did," Lan Le said. Her husband added: "I had to learn it. It's not that hard."

Natasha Milosevich, who came to the US from Yugoslavia 35 years ago, said she dines at Geno's to show her support.

"This guy is being crucified for saying something a lot of us believe," Milosevich said. "This is a free country. If you don't like the sign, you can go back home."