A silver lining in the downturn

Charity shops are attracting increasingly diverse customers - and with the economic downturn in full swing, they offer an opportunity to make real savings. Sarah Freemanputs them to the test.

WITH SPIRALLING debt and economic gloom on the horizon, it may be difficult to justify a shopping spree. There are, however, places where real bargains can still be found. Amid interest rate hikes and unemployment increases, charity shops have never looked so attractive.

This year marks the 60th anniversary of the first charity shop, set up by the Oxford Committee for Famine Relief (later to become Oxfam), and today, with the Irish Charity Shops Association representing 22 member charities and approximately 300 shops, there is a lot of choice for the shopper - and competition is fierce.

Trevor Anderson, head of retail for Oxfam Ireland and chairperson of the Irish Charity Shops Association, says Oxfam Ireland has 47 shops, with a turnover of €7.5 million.

"We hope it continues to pioneer, innovate and lead the market," he explains, adding, "We would like to have at least 50 shops in the next two years."

However, he's not convinced that people will turn to charity shops as the recession bites. "When there is a downturn in the economy we suffer like any other shop. There is no reason why we should do any better. People can do without that vintage blouse if times are tough.

"My view is that charity shops should be run as mainstream retailers. We have to be professional. We have got to get all the things that factor in commercial retailing," he says.

WHILE MANY OF Oxfam's shop managers have worked previously in mainstream retailing, Anderson is convinced that the organisation's strength also lies in its volunteers.

They do the multitude of tasks in the shops from sorting through items, steam-ironing clothes, working on the cash register and creating the window displays.

Kayoko Yanagisawa from Japan started volunteering for Oxfam Ireland in 2003, and has since been employed as deputy manager in the South Great George's Street shop in Dublin.

"It is very international here," she says. "They [other volunteers] are from Italy, France, Korea, Mauritius and, of course, Ireland."

There are, in total, 40 volunteers affiliated with the store, and armed with a pricing guide they sort through bags of donations, sometimes referring an item to an expert for appraisal.

Some items that need careful attention are the dresses donated to their bridal boutique. Available by appointment and located upstairs, the room is decorated in muted pastels and chandeliers. Lining the walls are rails of dresses, 90 per cent of which have never been worn.

Henderson says it has led to some queries. "People get the impression that [the dresses come from] brides who have been left at the altar but, for the most part, the dresses are new," he says. "Mainstream retailers donate them to us."

The South Great George's Street branch attracts young customers, whether because of its proximity to third-level educational institutions or its Aladdin's cave of vintage dresses, costume jewellery and natty handbags.

Therese Mullan (21) is perusing the clothes rails in search of something different. Dressed in a jaunty white cardigan patterned with large red cherries, the actress from Perrystown, in Dublin, reckons charity shopping carries a new type of cachet.

"With models such as Agyness Deyn and Kate Moss wearing all sorts of things, the stigma of charity shops has been crushed. Vintage clothing is really making a comeback and you can find authentic vintage in here, not just clothes made to look that way."

She adds that the shop may contain some interesting items in the way of acting research. "It's good for researching a character. I'm doing a play about suicide soon and I see a book on the shelves there about suicide."

Meanwhile, Rosaleen, a 23-year-old recent graduate from veterinary college, has one thing on her shopping list. "I'm here for the books," she says, clutching a fresh-looking copy of a John Irving novel in her hand. In fact, charity shops all over the country report healthy sales of books.

Colm Noonan is the administrator of the St Vincent de Paul Society in Galway. With 140 shops countrywide, and a turnover last year of €3 million, it's clear business is brisk. The shop in Galway comprises two separate stores under the one name - The Curiosity Shop.

"There is a huge appetite for books. They are incredible because books are so expensive," he said, adding, "charity shop books are very reasonable."

Will straitened economic circumstances increase the demand for their services?

"More people have been coming in over the past 12 months; they feel the pinch. It may affect donations, but it hasn't so far."

He attributes the success of their shops to a changing attitude: "The old days of people sneaking in and out are long gone. At first, there was a stigma but they [charity shops] are trendy now. The students are incredible customers, as are the new residents in the country, especially the eastern Europeans."

This upbeat attitude is echoed in Limerick, where Geraldine Kennedy is manager of the Oxfam shop. "We sell things at a reasonable enough price. There are quite a lot of charity shops in Limerick, many on the same street. All seem to be doing well, it gives people variety."

Mavis Hynes, manager of the Oxfam shop in Wexford, describes business as "good". Its location gives it a unique selling point. "The Wexford Opera Festival is always a big time for people looking for evening wear," she says, "so we do a special promotion at the time of the year."

Some items are hard to come by, however. "We can't get hold of men's evening wear," she says. "Gentlemen wear out their clothes whereas women like a change."

THE IRISH CANCER SOCIETY, which has eight shops in Dublin and two in Cork, faces a different problem. Christine Weston, manager of its shop on Capel Street, explains: "We do a collection around the houses and exactly half of our donations are stolen before they get to the shops. People leave their bag out on the way to work and by the time our driver gets there the bags are gone."

But wholesale stores also help to keep its shop well stocked, with end-of-line items. "People don't come in here to buy rubbish, they are looking for designer labels," she says. "We get the Fair Citycrowd in looking for vintage stuff, they don't need clothes but they like vintage and they find that they get them here."

The Irish Cancer Society counts students among their loyal customer base. "They love buying clothes and here they can buy five items for €20," she says.

Weston can remember when charity shops were very different. "All I could remember was horrible old broken-up shoes on the shelf and a teacup with a spider in it, but now charity shops are different."

Paul Hughes, general manager of retail for the Irish Cancer Society, says: "This downturn is probably an opportunity for charity shops. Our customers are people who are on limited income budgets and they want the best value they can get."

He is, however, aware that the shops are attracting an ever-increasing variety of shopper.

"A gold bracelet worth approximately €1,000 was donated, so we would probably retail that for somewhere around €700 or €800."

Nancy, a woman in her 60s who was browsing through the clothing rails of the Capel Street branch, says: "I sometimes go for magazines to read on the bus on the way home."

She says she feels good about going to charity shops. "First of all the money goes to charity, secondly you are recycling, not throwing away things and, thirdly, sometimes you get exciting stuff that you don't get in the shops, especially old things. It's win, win, win."