Louise Kennedy previewed her new winter collection in her home and showrooms at 56 Merrion Square, Dublin, yesterday, her first salon show in three years.
She has been spending a lot of time in New Delhi working with Indian craftsmen on beading and embroidery and yesterday's show was all about fabrics like cashmere, velvet and jersey given extra embellishment with such handiwork.
Texture, subtle detail rather than innovative line or styling, has always been this designer's particular forte and her clean-cut look is one of couture luxury for those who can afford around €1,000 for a jacket or €4,000 for a coat with hand crochet panels. "We have a client base which appreciates craftsmanship, small runs and the raw materials that we use", the designer assured The Irish Times.
The best pieces, fitted jackets in pin-striped velvet or midnight blue sequins worn with jeans, high heels and fox furs, showed a more relaxed way of modern upscale dressing. Businesslike black trouser suits were given a new twist, with double fronted jackets or with inset waistcoats and crisp white shirts. Skirts were mostly prim and pencil.
Worn with lots of high heels, it was all very ladylike and well mannered, though one sumptuous cream cashmere coat with Peter Pan collar seemed to demand accessories like chauffeurs and limousines.
More everyday were the colourful and sweet cashmere knits better without oversize shawls edged with leather or fur, the only discordant notes in an otherwise controlled collection. Far more effective and funky were vibrant cashmere scarves tied at the neck. The evening wear sparkled in every sense from fluid black jersey numbers with subtle shine to the more delicate silk georgette dresses that were feminine and flirtatious.