From a Portuguese estate owned by a wonderfully feisty German countess comes an equally characterful, individualistic wine. Casa Cadaval Trincadeira Preta, Vinho Regional Ribatejo, 1995 (Molloys, £8.99) is a seriously good rendition of the red grape variously known as Trincadeira, Periquita and Castelao Frances - all raspberry and blackberry tones with creamy vanilla and warming spice. Quite brilliant at this price.