Lancashire hotpot

Nigel Howarth is one of Britain’s finest cooks, and a fierce advocate of the produce of the North West. Alongside his old mates Reg Johnson and Paul Heathcote, they make up a mighty Lancastrian triumvirate. There are various versions of the Lancashire hotpot, but his is the best I’ve ever tasted. Here it is – it might seem a little cheffy, with all those different cuts of lamb – but it’s not. Serve with pickled red cabbage.

Preheat the oven to fan 160°C/325°F/Gas 4. Season the meat with the sugar, ½tsp salt and some black pepper. Toss with the flour and arrange in a heavy hotpot or casserole.

Season the loin chops. Heat the oil in a pan and sear the chops on all sides for 3-4 minutes, or until golden brown. Put them on top of the raw meat.

Heat 1tbsp of the butter in a clean pan over a medium-low heat until foaming, add the onions with 1tsp salt and cook for 2-3 minutes, or until soft but not browned. Spread the onions evenly over the lamb.

Put the potatoes in a bowl, add the remaining butter, season with 1 tsp salt and a pinch of white pepper, and mix well. Layer the sliced potatoes on top of the onions.

Bake the hotpot, covered, for 2 hours, removing the lid for the final 30 minutes.

To serve, divide among four bowls, making sure there’s a chop in each bowl.