London has something for all wine drinkers, from investment buyers to wine-bar imbibers, writes JOHN WILSON
LONDON HAS HISTORICALLY been one of the world's great wine centres. The British have always been very fond of Bordeaux, sherry, and port. Until recently, they did not make much of their own wine, so it is one of the most important markets for every producer country. There is a long tradition there of buying fine wine and laying it down. As a result, much of the available stocks of mature Bordeaux and port can be found in English cellars.
The auction houses of Christie's and Sotheby's both developed a strong business in auctioning wine to clients in the UK and elsewhere. On their coat-tails there developed a number of fine wine brokers, who did pretty much the same thing, only every day, buying and selling on behalf of clients. Fine wine merchants such as Berry Brothers & Rudd and Justerini & Brooks joined in, offering both wines en primeur and older vintages. These companies often serve ex-pats in Hong Kong and other business centres, and as interest has developed among the local population they have expanded to meet demand. Both of the above now have a network of offices in various parts of the Far East.
For the interested wine-drinker, London is a fascinating place, sophisticated and forward-thinking. The UK market may be driven by price and dominated by the multiples, but London has a huge number of independent wine importers and shops offering an amazing range of wines. As part of the 1980s mass exodus from Ireland, I spent three years working in the wine trade there. To those lamenting sons and daughters now making a similar trip, I would say that I learned more in those three years than I could have in a decade in Dublin. There were tastings every day in the spring and autumn, featuring wines from all corners of the globe.
If you are planning a visit to London, make sure to take a walk down St James's Street to see the historic Berry Brothers & Rudd.
Opposite is Justerini & Brooks, but sadly there is no retail shop. The main department stores, Fortnum & Mason, Selfridges, and Harvey Nichols all have very good wine selections, sometimes with prices to match. Also worth a visit are Roberson (Kensington High Street) Jeroboams (several branches, see jeroboams.co.uk), Vinoteca in Farringdon and Philglas & Swiggot (three branches, philglas-swiggot.com). Of the high-street chains, Oddbins are currently in administration, but Majestic appear to be going from strength to strength and has a very interesting selection. My favourite is Lea & Sandeman (leaandsandeman.co.uk), which has four shops with a small but brilliantly selected range of wines, with a strong emphasis on Italy and France.
Wine bars abound, including real wine bars that are happy to sell you a glass of something interesting without pushing food. A favourite is Terroirs (no relation to Terroirs in Donnybrook), a wine bar near Charing Cross set up by one of the most interesting wine importers in the UK, with an interest in natural biodynamic wines. The list makes a fascinating read, and the food is also very good.
Spanish wine fans will head straight to Cambio de Tercio, Tendido Cero, Tendido Cuatro or Capote y Toros, all on the Old Brompton Road. Tapas bars are currently very much back in vogue.
If you visit London, look out for English wine, which has been enjoying a revival over the past decade. There are now more than 100 wineries, producing more than two million bottles a year. Back in the Middle Ages, there were more than 150 wineries, so this is not a new phenomenon. Sadly, most are not available here, possibly because quantities are still limited and the wines are not cheap, but some are worth seeking out. Sparkling wines hold out the greatest hope, as they need base wines high in acidity and low in alcohol. Certain parts of southern England even have chalk soils similar to those in Champagne.
Beer of the week
Fuller's London Pride Premium Ale, 4.7%, €2.49-€2.99 for a 500ml bottleThis is the flagship beer of the historic Fuller's brewery based in Chiswick, west London. It is a classic English ale, light and refreshing with a nice hoppy bite on the finish. Drink it cool rather than chilled for maximum flavour. If you do visit London, be sure to try the cask-conditioned version in a pub. Stockists: Widely available in off-licences, Tesco and O'Briens.
M&S sparklers
Sparkling English Brut NV, 12%, €29.50Made primarily from two German grape varieties, Reichtensteiner and Müller-Thurgau, along with a little Pinot Noir, this is a different style of sparkler with a floral nose and a very fruity palate. This is made by Chapel Down winery in Kent. Stockist: Marks & Spencer
Ridgeview Marksman Brut Blanc de Blancs 2008, 12%, €32.50This 100 per cent Chardonnay has been aged in oak barrels. The nose has some lovely bready notes, and the palate is crisp and dry with plenty of toasty, yeasty fruits. The perfect way to toast the royal wedding? Stockist: Marks & Spencer
