Allez Aligoté

WINE:There's more to Aligoté than using it as the base for a Kir. Try the good ones without the addition of Crême de Cassis

THOSE OF YOU familiar with Aligoté may not have thought it worth more than a passing comment. But every now and again, I come across an example that really makes me sit up and take notice. Most recently this happened when tasting with Charles Derain, one of the leading importers of Burgundy in this country.

Aligoté is one of two white Burgundian varieties but always plays second fiddle to Chardonnay. Aligoté makes up less than 6 per cent of all plantings in Burgundy, a mere 1,600 hectares. Elsewhere, it is very popular in Russia and Romania, where it is highly valued as a component in sparkling wines. As most Aligoté is light and acidic, it works perfectly. These traits are magnified in Burgundy by a tendency to plant it on cooler slopes and on poorer soils. One wonders what it could do on some of the top soils. In Burgundy, most Aligoté is mixed with Crême de Cassis to make a Kir, the classic Burgundian aperitif. In the right hands, however, it is well worth trying as a wine.

The small commune of Bouzeron has always had a reputation for Aligoté and even has its own appellation, Bourgogne Aligoté – Côtes de Bouzeron. The best grower here is Aubert de Villaine, (the man also responsible for Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Burgundy’s greatest and most expensive estate), but sadly it is no longer available in this country. If you do come across an older bottle it is well worth a punt.

I recently tasted the wines of Domaine Goisot, a biodynamic estate located in the distinctly unfashionable region of Auxerre. Here, on Portlandian soils not unlike parts of nearby Chablis, Ghislaine and Jean-Hugues Goisot produce a series of fresh, elegant red and white wines. The Pinot Noir is light and very mineral, possibly a little too severe for most tastes, but the Chardonnay is superior to many Chablis that I have tasted, and the Savignon de Saint Bris is one of the best I have tasted. The Aligoté, too, is a real star, a wine worth seeking out, even if it has limited distribution.

The 2006, which is sadly no longer available, was a stunning wine with delicate but concentrated honey and leaves, while still retaining a vibrant acidity. It was an excellent vintage in this part of Burgundy.

The 2007, also sold out, was very different, but still very good, all fresh minerals and lime. I suspect that the excellent but youthful 2008 will be every bit as good as the 2006 in a few years, and have bought a case to see how it develops. Earlier in the year, I tasted the Ponsot Aligoté, an expensive but fascinating wine. In addition to this, Terroirs in Donnybrook will have the Jean-Marc Boillot Bourgogne Aligoté in a couple of weeks at €14.99. In addition, Jus de Vine and Fallon Byrne both stock the Domaine Perraud version at €16, and O’Briens has one from Chanson.

BOTTLES OF THE WEEK

Bourgogne Aligoté 2008, Domaine Goisot, 12.5%, €16-€17A youthful, lightly honeyed nose, with a tight structured palate full of lip-smacking mineral acidity and pears, finishing beautifully. Drink now or hold for a few years, but please don't waste it on Kir. Stockists: The Wine Boutique, Ringsend: Bin No 9, Goatstown; Vanilla Grape, Kenmare; Donnybrook Fair; www.thestoreroom.ie

Morey-Saint-Denis Clos des Monts Luisant, Vieilles Vignes 2007 Domaine Ponsot, 12.5%, €60-€70An extraordinary wine from one of the great winemakers of Burgundy. Very unusual but attractive waxy lanolin notes alongside some mandarin orange fruits, and excellent length. A very different wine to buy for the wine-lover in your life for Christmas. Stockists: Currently only available in a few of the country's top restaurants such as Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud and L'Écrivain, at around €140, or contact the importer Charles Derain charles@nomadwineimporters.com

TWO UNDER €12

Pena de Pato 2007, Dão, Portugal, 13%, €7.99Soft, easy, supple, plummy fruits with a rounded finish. A good mid-week quaffer at a very fair price. Stockist: Dunnes Stores

Graf Josef Grüner Veltliner 2009, 12.5%, €11.99New to this country, a very tasty Grüner Veltliner with vibrant fresh fruits, a touch of ginger spice and a crisp dry finish. A great all-rounder to sip solo, or with fish, chicken and pork dishes. Stockists: Redmond's, Ranelagh; The Corkscrew, Chatham Street; Gibney's, Malahide; www.wineonline.ie; Terroirs, Donnybrook

BEER OF THE WEEK

La Trappe Dubbel, 7%, €5 for 500mlA lovely rich beer with character, to enjoy in the colder weather. Bananas on the nose, full-bodied toffee and butterscotch with a bit of residual sweetness on the finish.