On Beauty: The toner revival

Toner is back in vogue. After years in the skincare wilderness, it has suddenly become wildly popular, with many women adjusting their regimes to add an extra product. How did this happen?

In a word, rebranding. Some products now labelled as toners are actually chemical exfoliators. We're familiar with physical exfoliators, those scrubs with bits in them and brushes such as the Clarisonic.

Chemical exfoliators dissolve away dead skin using mild concentrations of enzymes or acids. They instantly brighten the complexion and can improve conditions such as acne, which explains why they are so popular.

Post-cleanse products or acid toners containing the AHAs glycolic, lactic and salicylic acids, include Aveda Botanical Kinetics Toner and Clarins Gentle Exfoliating Brightening Toner. They have been ingeniously branded to fit into the magical three-step skincare myth of "cleanse, tone and moisturise" .

Toners were invented to cut through the grease of heavy cleansers, but cleansers are now so good that they should wash off your face without leaving any residue. However, on the back of the success of acid toners, every product labelled “toner” has gained in popularity: even the ones that would tear the face off you.

Toners can be loosely divided into three categories.

Clarifying/astringent

Astringent toners, the original of the species, haven’t changed much since the beginning of time. They are usually loaded with ingredients such as alcohol or witch hazel and often promise to reduce oil and pore size and to refresh skin. Nothing can make pores smaller, and these ingredients will irritate and dry out many people’s skin. They’re often cynically marketed at teenage consumers who are desperate to get rid of spots and blemishes. Traditional toners are not worth the money; you’re better off investing in a good cleanser. Avoid, unless recommended by a dermatologist.

Hydrating

The second type promises to “hydrate and restore the skin’s PH balance” and often claims to contain only “pure and natural ingredients”. Many experts regard this category as being as useful as pouring your money down the sink, as you can get all the moisturisation you need from your moisturiser (and serum, if you use one). Lots of women love these toners, as they’re cooling and refreshing. If you are a fan, choose an inexpensive brand or simple rosewater.

Acid toner

If you are keen to try an acid toner, there are some standouts that are rapidly becoming regarded as an essential in many bathroom cabinets. Along with the Aveda and Clarins toners above, Kiehls (Clearly Corrective Clarity Activating Toner) and Mario Badescu (Glycolic Acid Toner) have good toners that will chemically exfoliate skin and get it ready for moisturiser.

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REN Vitamin C Flash Rinse 1 Minute Facial

(€38): Fans of chemical exfoliators will like this gel; it brightens and smoothes by removing dead, flaky skin almost instantly. Don’t overdo it, though: a couple of times a week is more than enough.

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(€34.99): An effective chemical exfoliating gel with glycolic and lipohydroxy acid that smoothes and can help to combat dark spots.

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(€162): A little of this very expensive oil goes a long way, thankfully. It’s a dry oil, luxurious and light, so it doesn’t feel greasy and is ideal for daytime use.

Schwarzkopf BC Rose Oil Miracle

(€26): Another rose oil, this one for hair and scalp. It won’t weigh hair down like some heavier serums might, so it’s ideal for fine hair and is also good for taming flyaways.

AISLING LOVES . . .

Maybelline Brow Satin

(€8.49): I like this dual-ended shadow/gel pencil because it is subtle and comes in four shades, including Mahogany Red, which will suit the skin tone of many Irish women. I was a bit flummoxed by the shadow end at first, but after a fiddle I discovered that the trick is to screw the lid back on to refill the sponge with powder.