You are forgiven if you haven’t come across assyrtiko before. A decade ago, this grape was virtually unknown. It was found almost exclusively on the Greek island of Santorini, where the vines are grown very low to the ground, often woven into a basket shape to provide protection from the ever-present winds.
Many of the vines are very old and all are ungrafted (grown on their own roots) as phylloxera never reached Santorini.
The soils are volcanic and infertile, a free-draining mix of ash, stones and sand. Rich in minerals, they produce grapes (and tomatoes) full of flavour. There are now more than 20 growers on the island, but land is scarce, and growers must compete with the ever-expanding tourist business eager to build more hotels and holiday lets.
Typically, on Santorini, the wines are crisp, high in acidity and bone dry with a strong mineral edge. Lovers of riesling will certainly appreciate assyrtiko. Making wine on Santorini is very demanding and yields are low, so the wines are rarely cheap. But over the last decade assyrtiko has spread to the Greek mainland, with growers cashing in on the newfound fame of the variety, while also appreciating its ability to retain acidity in hot climates. Australian producer Peter Barry of Jim Barry Wines told me that this was one of the factors that lead his team to plant assyrtiko in one of their prime vineyards in the Clare Valley.
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In addition to the wines below, O’Briens has the excellent Gaia Santorini Wild Ferment Assyrtiko (€45.99) and Monograph (€22.99). Some of our more adventurous independent wine shops will have a few too, including Lyrarakis (€19), and Kir-Yianni (€23.99), while Wines Direct imports the very natural Shadow Play (€27.75).
Athlon Greek Assyrtiko 2025, Macedonia
12.5%, €9.99
Crisp fresh citrus and green apple fruits with a snappy dry finish. Drink solo or with lighter seafood dishes.
From Aldi
Myrtia Assyrtiko 2025, Macedonia
13.5%, €14.75
A very stylish wine with white flower aromas, concentrated pears and lemon zest. Very good value for money. I would try this with salmon or prawn dishes.
From Marks & Spencer
Petali Assyrtiko 2024, Diamantakis Winery, Crete
13%, €23-€24
Fresh floral and mint aromas, with vivid citrus peel and succulent pears. Try it with crab cakes or tuna.
From Searsons, Monkstown, Co Dublin; 64 Wine, Glasthule, Co Dublin; Blackrock Cellar, Co Dublin; Custom House, Baltimore, Co Cork; Union Wine Bar, Waterford; BaRossa, Dublin 4; Clontarf Wines, Dublin 3; Green Man, Dublin 6; Redmonds, Dublin 6; Pinto, Dublin 9
Assyrtiko 2024, Mylonas Winery, Attaki
13%, €23
Fennel and other wild herbs, with green fruits and a crisp, dry mineral finish. Drink with Greek salad, fried vegetables and fish.
From Cooper’s Bottle Shops, Sutton, Co Dublin and Clontarf, Dublin 3; Celtic Whiskey Shop, Dublin 2, Redmonds, Dublin 6
