How is your German? My baustelle Deutsch, learned on the building sites of Germany, is barely adequate, but this certainly doesn’t prevent me from enjoying German wine.
The labels can seem complicated, and they do convey a huge amount of information, but five words will enable you to get a handle on some world-class wines. Trocken means dry, so if you want to avoid medium and sweet wines, this is a good start. You will see it on many German wine labels.
Then it pays to remember four grape varieties (although sometimes these are in English). Riesling is one of the world’s greatest and these days most of them are dry. So too are the three Burgunders or Burgundian grape varieties: pinot blanc (weissburgunder) Pinot Grigio (grauburgunder) and pinot noir (spätburgunder). This week four Rieslings, next week the burgunders.
Germany has been on a roll for several decades now, producing superb wines from all of the above varieties (and more). Leaving aside the very cheap medium-dry wines, overall quality is excellent. On a recent visit to Dublin, a group of young enthusiastic producers known as Generation Riesling put on a dazzling display of their wines. We can expect to see some of these arriving here soon. In the meantime, treat yourself to one of the wines below.
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As a starting point, most of the multiples offer a few dry German wines, often at very keen prices. The Albert Glas range in SuperValu offer an excellent introduction to German wines.
German Riesling is low in alcohol and free of oak. Whenever my piggy bank is looking full, I treat myself to a few bottles of high-quality dry Rieslings. They are ready to drink but will age for a decade or more. As well as the producers below my favourite names include Breuer, Emrich Schönleber, Keller, Fürst, Fritz Haag, Merkelbach and Robert Weil, but there are many more.
Albert Glas brown Label Riesling, Pfalz 2021
12%, €15
Fresh crisp green apple and pear fruits with a vibrant acidity and a dry finish. With crab, scallops or sushi.
From SuperValu
Wittmann Riesling Trocken 2021, Rheinhessen Organic
11.5%, €23
Vibrant with fresh mouth-watering peaches and racy acidity. A great aperitif or with crab salad.
From Grapevine.ie, Dalkey
Sybille Kuntz Mosel-Riesling Trocken 2020
12%, €24.95
A delightful, elegant refreshing wine with gentle floral hints and succulent orchard fruits.
From JNwine.com; Pete’s Provisions, D5
Dautel Bönnigheim Riesling Trocken 2021, Württemburg
12%, €28-29
Stimulating, intense mouth-watering stone fruits with a lively seam of mineral acidity and a lengthy finish. Wonderful wine.
From La Touche Wines, Greystones
