For those who travel to Brussels regularly for business, and there are many from Ireland that do with multiple daily flights available, a short train hop to Antwerp, Belgium’s largest city, is a must. For food, culture, sightseeing and shopping in particular, Antwerp ranks highly. But for the art lover, a visit to the newly reopened Royal Museum of Fine Arts (KMSKA) is a real treat.
For 11 years the museum was closed to the public while the building was undergoing renovations and with 8,400 pieces on show, it is the largest and most important art collection in Flanders. The building is a breathtaking feat of architecture and you could spend an entire day meandering from room to room, inspecting the Rubens, Van Eycks and the standout Fouquet’s Madonna, if you can get near to it. This piece usually attracts a large crowd.
From there you can make your way to several of the shopping streets, and visit some of the clothing stores, particularly the Antwerp 6+, a group of groundbreaking designers including Martin Margiela, Dries Van Noten, Ann Demeulemeester, Walter Van Beirendonck, Dirk Bikkembergs, Marina Yee and Dirk Van Saene. The diamond industry, which has been active in Antwerp for over a hundred years, marks it out as an extremely opulent city but in the Nieuw Zuid or nascent district it is a hotbed of art and culture. Four galleries have opened an outlet in shared areas there, in accordance with the district’s sustainable philosophy. You will find Plus-One and the Sofie Van de Velde Gallery under the same roof, with the Tim Van Laere Gallery and Everyday Gallery together a little further on.
Next visit the bourse of Antwerp, which was the world’s first purpose-built commodity exchange. From 1872 until 1997 the restored building housed the Antwerp Stock Exchange and is now part of an events venue called the Antwerp Trade Fair. On an ordinary day, you can walk around inside or grab a quiet drink.
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Use an Antwerp Citycard to discover most of the historic centre including the Museum Plantin-Moretus, the workshop and home of the printing family. You can see some of the oldest printing presses in the world as well as tens of thousands of books and a spectacular art collection. This Unesco world heritage is a unique experience and will transport you to 16th-century Antwerp.
Rubens’ palazzo is where the old Dutch master did most of his painting as well as welcoming many of the dignitaries of his day. He also drew plans for the property’s renovation in 1610 which was inspired by the architecture of Roman antiquity. This is a great museum to walk around on a lazy Saturday afternoon, but you would need to visit soon as the house will close for renovations in January 2023.
The gem of Antwerp
The Cathedral of Our Lady in Antwerp is the largest Gothic church in the Low Countries. Its northern tower, which is stone lacework, is 123m high and really is the gem of Antwerp and can be seen from many aspects as you walk the city’s streets. Fascinating features include Rubens’ Elevation of the Cross and his Descent from the Cross. There are small catacombs underground and lots of places to light a candle and take in a quiet moment after a hectic day in the hustle and bustle of the old town.
Finding somewhere to dine will not be a problem. It’s choosing that will cause issues.
Fiera is located in the aforementioned stock exchange building and the dining room features lots of dark, almost opppressive wood, perfect for snug dining on cold, crisp winter evenings. The cocktail menu is extensive but the barman will go off piste and make you whatever you want.
Bar Bulot is a contemporary classic restaurant at the new Botanic Sanctuary hotel and is the perfect place to host a business lunch or an intimate dinner with friends or a plus one.
Nage is a small, cosy restaurant that serves a five-course dinner menu for €68. Paired with natural wines this is a lovely weekend dining experience.
Stay at the new Sapphire House Antwerp, which is located in a 16th-century building that offers a unique blend of history with a more contemporary, bespoke design. Rooms are extremely spacious with high ceilings and comfy, plush furnishings. Carnivores beware, this is an entirely plant-based hotel but the two-star chef has found lots of inspiring ways to make vegan dishes that little bit more enticing.
There are no direct flights to Antwerp but flights to Brussels are frequent and daily. A high-speed train from Brussels airport to Antwerp takes 20 minutes. For more information visit www.visitflanders.com or www.visitantwerpen.be.
