Penneys' fashion show at the RHA Gallery was mostly about glamour. Apart from a few staid strictly-for-the-office suits, it was all about that elusive and desirable thing. After dark, this is understandable but during the day it's more unusual - and more subtle.
Using real and fake leathers, sheepskin (£60 for a blond cropped jacket), shiny PVC and second-skin printed snakeskin, the fashions ranged from the soft (jackets teamed with georgette skirts and lambswool knits) to the Parisian tart (cropped shiny trousers and jackets worn with very high-heeled sandals, with models who seemed unaccustomed to walking in them).
There was a kind of punk style - denims were edged with lurex, clutch bags spotted with rhinestones (£6) and knitted halter-necks showed off nicely tanned backs. Fine chain belts are a small but important detail. The denim is of the stretchy and clingy kind.
But the real glamour was kept for party clothes. Backless, strappy gold-and-black mesh vests and halter-necks, sequinned cardigans (£18) and a slither of a dress in see-through embroidered lace (£25).
A shocking pink "piano shawl" with long fringes (£12) gave an extra bit of frisson. A black floral crochet cardigan (£20) showed that, in the pursuit of glamour, it is best to wear little - and that little should be see-through. It's all quite modest, but with undertones.
The comfortable items still lurk around: puffer jackets, zip-up wool cardigans (£14), striped sweaters and wool-mix funnel-necked coats (£45 in at the beginning of October) that would keep the worst of winter away.
But for Penneys, it is mainly a season of glamour on a budget, using a predominantly aubergine, olive and camel chart for day, and the great old favourites of black, gold, and purple for evening. Just keep it brief.