Wines Of The Week

Sylvanvale Vine yards Pinotage Reserve, 1998, Vaughan Johnson, (£14.99)

Sylvanvale Vine yards Pinotage Reserve, 1998, Vaughan Johnson, (£14.99). As somebody who has not been bowled over by the merits of Pinotage, I approached this specimen with a degree of scepticism. But this big fella floods your mouth with an array of powerful flavours, dominated by intense sun-soaked fruit. The tannins have not yet softened, giving the wine a chewy, jaw-exercising muscular feel, but there is something special going on here and it will get better in time. That said, it is delicious now. This is one of a number of new SA wines in this exceptional Temple Bar operation.

Cabanon Oltrepo Pavese Pinot Grigio, 1999, Vaughan Johnson, (£11.99). I have long held the suspicion that Pinot Grigio is potentially Italy's strongest white wine. Here is more evidence. This is a superior Pinot Grigio with the ripe pineapple fruit set against a well-balanced acidity. Lightly chilled, no more, its golden colour betokens a petrol richness that is manifest in its length and its tongue-tickling bitter sweetness. The price may be more than one would expect for a Pinot Grigio, but so is the wine. This is just one of 20 new Italian arrivals in this mainly South African shop.