Bottle Of The Week

The French are inclined to dismiss all humble New World wines as over-fruity fodder for beginners. "Bof, c'est du Coca!" they splutter, before entwining the words "France" and "elegance". But Tesco Chilean Merlot Reserve, Curico, 1999 (Tesco, £6.49) has so much all-round appeal that a Frenchman into whose hand I thrust a glass at dinner pronounced it "so good even French people could enjoy it". Smooth and intense with plenty of spicy thrust, it's made for Tesco by topnotch producer Valdivieso. Great drinking at the price.