Bottles of the week

WINE: Gregoris Pinot Grigio, Veneto, Azienda Fattori 2003 and Backert Gewürztraminer, Alsace 2002

WINE: Gregoris Pinot Grigio, Veneto, Azienda Fattori 2003 and Backert Gewürztraminer, Alsace 2002

Gregoris Pinot Grigio, Veneto, Azienda Fattori 2003. When you consider how many hectolitres of watery, characterless Pinot Grigio are pumped out by vast companies in northern Italy, it's a joy to find this terrifically flavoursome, well crafted example from a small family producer. An absolute winner in this vintage. From Cabot & Co, IFSC; Celtic Whiskey Shop, Dawson St; On the Grapevine, Dalkey & Booterstown; Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; Grape Escape, Lucan; Capranis, Ashford; Sky & Ground, Wexford; World Wide Wines, Waterford; Cabots, Westport, €12.50-€12.99.

Backert Gewürztraminer, Alsace 2002. Like all good wines, this one develops in the glass, making the nostrils twitch as you pick up more and more aromas. Lemons, lime, lychees, gentle spice, rose petals, Turkish Delight - all the classic Gewürz descriptors will spill into your notebook as you keep sniffing. These elements also come through on the palate, adding up to an exotic mouthful with enough acidity to make it more refreshing than many of its rivals. Watch out for the long finish too - another sign of class. From Vaughan Johnson's, Temple Bar and Baggot Street Bridge, €16.95.