Turning on the power at Croke Park

If the words of U2's manager, Paul McGuinness, are anything to go by, there'll be enough charisma to start a religion on stage…

If the words of U2's manager, Paul McGuinness, are anything to go by, there'll be enough charisma to start a religion on stage in Croke Park tonight as the "biggest band in the world" play the first of three gigs in their own back yard.

"They're bigger and better than they ever were - better shows and better music," he told reporters at a media "walk through" of the Croke Park venue yesterday.

"There's a genuine sense of homecoming about these gigs, and it's been important for them to stay big in their home town. I'm very proud that they can come here and play right in the heart of the city in front of a quarter of a million people. It will be special."

Spare tickets for the gigs tonight, tomorrow and Monday are so thin on the ground, they make gold-dust look plentiful.

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Bono, The Edge, Larry and Adam would probably find it hard to remember when, in 1979, they struggled as teenagers to break in to the music industry by singing for their suppers in Dublin's Dandelion Market.

And, while it may be just over a mile as the crow flies from the old market to Croke Park, where the masses will come to pay homage tonight, the journey must feel like light years for the former school friends.

They are just over half-way through their European and US tour. It is a tour which has already grossed $300 million (€250 million) in ticket sales. It's a long way from their first rehearsals in Mount Temple school on Dublin's north side where their paths' first crossed.

By the time the massive roadshow grinds to a halt in Portland, Oregon in December, the band will have played to nearly 90 full houses.

Yesterday, scores of roadies, engineers and sound technicians were hanging from every vantage point in Croke Park, sometimes hundreds of feet in the air, pulling into place the massive stage where the band will play for two-and-a-half hours tonight.

The gig costs around $1 million per night to put on. If there was an Olympic gold medal for logistics, the crew working on the Vertigo tour would take it with ease.

Jake Berry, the band's tour production manager, said it takes nearly 200 people, split into three different crews, to - literally - keep the show on the road.

"We have 32 production trucks and 16 trucks for the steel frame of the stage. It takes 83 production staff and 32 drivers just to move the stuff around. Three crews leapfrog each other from venue to venue. We'll have one crew setting up in Cardiff for next week's gig, even before the band are finished in Dublin."

The massive stage towers 28 metres (30.6 yards) into the air. It is 30 metres deep and 68 metres wide. Because the GAA would not allow the main part of the stage to be built on the pitch, seats have been stripped from beside Hill 16 to fit the massive structure between the famed terrace and the hallowed turf.

"The sound system is 250,000 watts," said Mr Berry. "Your stereo at home is 10 watts, that's unless you've got something very special that you're not telling us about. There are over 200 amps and around 10,000 lights.

Yesterday, outside the venue on Jones Road, a small number of fans had already begun to gather, anxious to get their place at the very front of the crowd.

First in the queue was Jan Moet, a 40-year-old Dutchman from Amsterdam. "I've been here since 7am today. I did the same when they played in Slane, I was the first in line for the two gigs. What this band has pulled off in the last 20 years nobody else has ever done. They just have such a great sound."

Conor Lally

Conor Lally

Conor Lally is Security and Crime Editor of The Irish Times