We've grown so used to wines with showbiz personalities that everyday Bordeaux can seem a shy wallflower by comparison. But Chateau Le Mayne Bordeaux Superieur 1997 (Superquinn, reduced from £8.21 to £5.93 from today) combines classic claret character - that gentle whiff of pencil lead and cedar - with enough body and flavour to make it an attractive and easy dinner companion. As for the price . . . mon Dieu!