Let's get one thing straight. Domaine Fleury Laplace Madiran 1996 (Molloys Liquor Stores special offer, £5.99) is a big, outspoken wine that needs robust, fleshy food. If not a fat Gascon duck (confit de canard is the thing to try with Madiran on holiday), then a good lump of Irish beef. Get the barbecue going, and the smoky pungency of chargrilled steak will meet its match in a wine with tarry, leathery, earthy aromas and a firm, meaty core. From the Chateau d'Aydie stable (see above), it's a snip at this price.