Bottle of the Week

There are any number of "premium" Chilean Cabernets on the market - all souped up, too concentrated, too oaky, just trying too damn hard. And there's Cousino Macul Antiguas Reservas Cabernet Sauvignon, Maipo, 1996 (many outlets, see above, usually £9.99), a quiet, unswaggering presence, getting it right for years. Made from 80-year-old vines on Chile's oldest family-owned estate, it marries Old World subtlety with New World drinkability. Hard to think of a better way to spend a tenner.