It may seem strange to sing paens of praise for the small producers, the driven individualists intent on elegance - and then pick a loudmouth red from a company that feels as big as General Motors. But Sebastiani Sonoma Cask Zinfandel 1996 (outlets above, about £10.49) is that too-rare thing - a characterful wine, exuberantly Californian in style, at a bearable price. Made from the intensely flavoured fruit of 50- to 100-year-old vines in Dry Creek Valley and Sonoma, it's a berry-rich, peppery American extrovert.