FOOD:Pink-tinged salmon and vibrant rhubarb are spring eye-candy, writes Domini Kemp.
I'M LAZY ABOUT cooking fish at home because of the smell that lingers after pan-frying fish fillets in butter until they're golden and crispy. Despite open windows and extractor fans on full blast, the aromas remain, and even lighting some cloying scented candles can't save the day. I end up vowing to cook fish using gentler techniques that won't leave a lingering smell - and won't produce so many smudgy grease-marks all over the cooker.
This salmon recipe is a real favourite, and we cook a fancier version of it when catering for large buffet parties. Salmon is relatively fatty and you might think that poaching it in olive oil would be too rich, but in fact, it's bang-on.
It is a great dish to do for large numbers and is grand served lukewarm, when it takes on an almost custard-like texture, or cold. If you want to serve it for a large group, as part of a buffet for 30 guests, for example, use fillets or cutlets that each weigh about 150g and place them in a deep baking tray or casserole dish. Treble the amount of cooking liquid in the recipe, and you can re-use it by cooking the salmon in batches.
Put as many as you can fit in your tray or casserole dish, pour the warm olive oil broth on top, cover with tin foil and cook in a low oven (140 degrees/gas mark one) for about 30 minutes. Let them cool slightly, then remove them, put your next batch in and repeat the process. I wouldn't cook a whole salmon in this way, as the ideal thing is to have it portioned before you cook it.
Olive oil-poached salmon with tarragon and pink peppercorns(serves 4)
Don't fret if you don't have peppercorns or tarragon, substitute green peppercorns or a few sprigs of rosemary. What is important is the slow, gentle cooking of the fish in a salty, olive oil-based broth.
100ml olive oil
1 tbsp pink peppercorns
2 teaspoons salt
Small bunch of tarragon
4 salmon fillets with the skin on, weighing about 200g each
Put the olive oil, peppercorns, salt and tarragon in a smallish saucepan with 400ml water and heat until the salt dissolves. Carefully place the salmon fillets in the saucepan; don't worry if they are all squashed together. There should be enough liquid to half-submerge them. Bring to a gentle boil then reduce the heat so that it barely simmers for about five minutes. Then turn off the heat and leave the fish in the hot liquid for about 30 minutes, turning it once or twice so that it cooks evenly. You can then serve it lukewarm, or else cool it, refrigerate in its poaching liquid and serve cold. This works really well served with home-made mayonnaise and some watercress salad.
Braised baby gem
Cooked lettuce? Are you mad? Give it a go. Sometimes the leaves of the little baby gems are so tight that they seem reluctant to be made into a Caesar salad. So I teach them a lesson and cook the hell out of 'em for kicks (as well as a tasty side dish that even children enjoy).
4 heads baby gem lettuce
Good knob butter (50g)
Splash olive oil
Few sprigs thyme
Two cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
Salt and pepper
Slice the lettuce in half lengthways. If some outer leaves fall off, don't bother cooking them. Heat the butter and olive oil until it is foaming and fry the baby gem, flat side down, for about a minute, or until just starting to colour in parts. Add about 100ml water, the thyme and garlic, and season well. Cook on a high heat for about another minute, turning them over gently, and serve with some of the buttery cooking liquid.
Rhubarb fool flavoured with rosemary and ginger(serves 4-6)
Don't get all cranky and think I'm sticking the rosemary in there to be a bit wacky and creative. It's really quite tasty.
500g chopped rhubarb
Sprig rosemary
Knob ginger, peeled and chopped in half
150g caster sugar (approximately)
200ml cream
Cook the rhubarb with the rosemary, ginger and just enough water to stop it from burning, in a medium-sized saucepan with a lid on it. Cook on a low heat for about 20 minutes, or until it is tender. Allow it to cool a little, then remove the ginger and rosemary. When it is still warm, add enough sugar to sweeten to taste. Allow it to cool fully, then whip the cream until thick and fold into the rhubarb. Add more sugar if necessary. If you want to show off and have a layer of pretty pink juice on the top of your fool, leave the rhubarb in a sieve to cool and collect the juice, which you can then pour on top.