Good Food

We are what we eat, say the Germans: Man ist was er isst

We are what we eat, say the Germans: Man ist was er isst. A word-play which comes to mind when the magazine Organic Matters arrives in the post from the Organic Farm Centre in Kilbeggan. Some people say: "But is organically raised food really more healthy than that raised commercially? Mind you it does taste better." You have to answer for yourself, but a casually perused article in that solid French journal Le Monde reminds us that the commercial farming of today raises other questions: "Pesticides also pollute the atmosphere" as well as affecting what we eat. Several areas of France are named. There are other pollutants, we all know, the article stresses, but the fact that the pesticidal elements are present in lesser quantities than others, does not make it less worrying. And, of course, farmers themselves are the first victims, being the handlers of the chemicals. An odd fact: in Germany, says the article, there have been found traces of a herbicide atrazien which is not in use in that country. Carried on the wind, presumably. The argument goes on. A letter to the London Times recently from the father of a girl whose life has been devastated by pesticides poisoning, argues that `the yields of traditional agriculture are not only quantifiably higher than those achieved with intensive chemical inputs, they are also qualitatively better'.

"Is he saying that old-time farming was what we now call organic? Anyway, to the May/June issue of Organic Matters. To cheer you up a bit, Coilin Mac Lochlainn, Editor, tells us that "organic farming will command a 30 per cent share of EU agriculture by 2010 if present growth rates continue"! He is quoting from words spoken at the Irish Organic Farmers and Growers Association in January. But, he argues, they won't, unless farmers are convinced it's worth their while converting. Training and advice will be vitally important, and in this issue of the magazine three centres of organic learning are featured: Rossinver, County Leitrim; the Organic College at Drumcollogher in County Limerick; and then the Teagasc-run Mellows College in Athenry offers organic courses from the autumn.

The magazine is not just a "do-this" handbook. Dick Warner tells of the struggle of a comparative neophyte to the organic world. He admits to sometimes being less than a purist, he should "avoid the sin of purism", in fact. Much first-class reading to which we will return. Y