PARIS: Ruby lips, sequin eyes and crystal fingers were scattered through designer Emmanuel Ungaro's haute couture collection in Paris yesterday, putting a surrealist spin on romantic tea dresses and sinuous evening gowns.
Guests including actress Sophie Marceau gathered at the Palais de Chaillot for the last major display of the spring-summer season.
Russian model-of-the-moment Natalia Vodianova stepped out in a grey denim peplum jacket embroidered with dozens of scarlet mouths sprouting cigarettes and curlicued smoke motifs.
A sequined eye peeped from the cream satin lapel of a black wool jacket with dozens of pouts running along the hem, while crimson lips at the hip blew out the word "glamour".
The gimmicky touches were sprinkled over outfits in Ungaro's signature clash of printed chiffons, embroidered lace and floral patterns that cascaded from the body in a baroque jumble.
Amid the confusion, there were fluid bias-cut satin evening dresses. These came in shades of chartreuse, lilac and coral but were most striking in timeless black.
Equally alluring were leaf-printed satin devore dresses with billowing sleeves that recalled the mood of a tea party in Hong Kong, circa 1935.
However, Ungaro's frenzied imagination meant the collection lacked a guiding theme. Surrounded by cameras backstage, the designer brushed off questions with an irritated shrug.
"They are dresses. You wear them when you want, in the evening, in the morning, at breakfast, for lunch, to go see your lover. When you produce a collection, you don't know why you are doing it," he said.
The comments sounded hollow at a time when haute couture is struggling to justify its existence as a purveyor of priceless made-to-measure creations to a handful of wealthy clients.
Luxury conglomerates continue to fund the loss-making industry because they know publicity from the catwalk shows will fuel sales of money-spinning cosmetics and accessories. - (Reuters)