This is the other side of the more-bulkwines coin - and very shiny it is, too. As the big brands increase their output, mainly targeting recent wine recruits, more discriminating drinkers will turn to more distinctive wines. The best source? A small producer driven by passion rather than a squad of accountants waving balance sheets. Small isn't always beautiful, but most micro-producers realise their future depends on their ability to hand-craft wines that marry personality with quality. As consumers are growing more knowledgeable by the minute, the names of the good guys will soon become widely known.
Try: Domaine La Soumade Rasteau, Cotes du Rhone Villages, 1997 (direct, by the case, from James Nicholson, £8.99; also Berry Bros, Harry Street). Rasteau isn't one of the southern Rhone's poshest appellations, but top grower Andre Romero will overturn your prejudices with this rich, spicy, well-bred beauty.