Seeing The Light

Cape Country Colombard, Breede River, 1999 (Marks & Spencer, £5.50)

Cape Country Colombard, Breede River, 1999 (Marks & Spencer, £5.50). `It would take some sorcery to transform Colombard into an exciting wine,' writes Jancis Robinson in the Oxford Companion to Wine. Maybe - but this fruity South African slips down with amazing ease. Alcohol 11.5 per cent.

Angove's Stonegate Verdelho The Arch 1999 (O'Briens Fine Wines, £6.99). Some Verdelhos are lemony; this one has more tropical fruit tones, kept in check by a clean lime finish. Alcohol 12 per cent. (From the same stable, 50p cheaper and just 11.5 per cent alcohol is Angove's Stonegate Semillon-Chardonnay - equally delicious.)

Albis, Terras do Sado, Jose Maria da Fonseca, 1998 (McCabes Blackrock and Foxrock, Mill Wine Cellar Maynooth and selected off-licences countrywide, usually £6.99). This lively Portuguese white is made mainly from the Muscat grape, as you'll guess from its ripe, almost spicy muscatel-grape flavour. Smooth and mouthfilling, with great length and bracing acidity. Try it with Asian food or as an aperitif. Alcohol 11.8 per cent.

Tseleopos Mantinia, Peleponnese, 1998 (Oddbins, £6.99) Another of Oddbins's alluring Greek strangers. This one's flowery and fresh, with hints of dessert apples and the faintest touch of honey. Alcohol 11.5 per cent. Wolf Blass White Label Semillon-Sauvignon Blanc, South Australia 1998 (widely available, usually £7.99). Wolf Blass isn't synonymous with subtlety, either in person or in the bottle - but this light, zesty, citrussy wine is so lightfooted I might have taken it for a young Australian Riesling. Alcohol 12 per cent.

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Vier Jahreszeiten Durkheimer Schenkenbohl Spatburgunder Weissherbst, Pfalz, 1998 (Molloys Liquor Stores, also Karwig, Carrigaline, usually £7.99). An absolute peach, in every sense. Alcohol 11.5 per cent. See Bottle of the Week.