`Rosemary, just like any other herb, is sweeter in the spring, with its new shoots . . . ," writes Anna Del Conte in her fine book, The Classic Food of Northern Italy. And her recipe for Pollo in Potacchio - Chicken with Tomato and Rosemary Sauce - beautifully showcases the sweetness of the rosemary growing right now. You really only need some very good quality bread to make this a perfect supper.
Chicken with Tomato and Rosemary sauce
a free-range chicken of about 1 1/2kg/3 1/4 lb, cut into pieces
1/2 a lemon
2 tablespoons olive oil
60g/2oz unsalted butter
150ml (5 fl oz) dry white wine
1 onion, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
salt and freshly ground pepper For the potacchio sauce
1 small onion or 3 shallots
2 or 3 fresh rosemary sprigs, each 12cm (5 in long)
the rind of 1 unwaxed lemon
1/2-1 dried chilli, according to strength
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 can plum tomatoes, drained and coarsely chopped Wash and dry the chicken pieces. Rub each piece with the half-lemon. Heat the oil and the butter in a large saute pan. When the butter foam begins to subside put in the chicken pieces and fry on all sides until they are nicely browned.
Add the wine, bring to the boil and boil for one minute. Turn the heat down and throw in the onion and garlic. Season with salt and pepper, then cover the pan and cook for 20 minutes.
While the chicken is cooking, prepare the sauce. Chop very finely together the onion or shallots, rosemary needles, the rind of the lemon and the chilli. Put the oil in a frying pan and when it is hot add the chopped ingredients. Saute gently for five minutes or so and then add the tomatoes and a little salt. Cook over lively heat for about 15 minutes, stirring frequently.
Now that the potacchio is done, scoop it into the saute pan with the chicken and mix it with all those lovely cooking juices at the bottom of the pan. Let the whole thing cook together for another quarter of an hour so that the chicken will insaporire - take the flavour of the sauce.
Test the chicken by pricking the thigh with the point of a small knife or a thin skewer. The juices that run out should be clear. Correct the seasoning before bringing the dish to the table.