Eating out:Michelin stars mean an awful lot to chefs and considerably less to normal human beings. Quite why the judgment of a restaurant guide published by a tyre company should so exercise the guys in the white hats I can't say, but it must have something to do with the fact that Michelin is pretty tight-fisted with its stars.
At any rate, there's a paucity of Michelin stars in Ireland, and there are several reasons for this. Firstly, with our sparse population we can't hope to have anything like the number you will find in England. Secondly, standards in Irish restaurants, by and large, are pretty low. But thirdly, and most importantly, I'm not sure that the Michelin inspectors ever take a serious look at anything other than the usual suspects.
How, otherwise, can we explain the lack of stellar recognition for the Tannery? There are restaurants in Britain, especially in the midlands, that can't hold a candle to this 10-year-old Dungarvan establishment. The Michelin inspectors insist on consistency, so can it be that? Well, no. I've eaten at the Tannery more often than I have in any of our other leading restaurants (partly because it's only half an hour from home), and it's as steady as a rock. The wine list, which was once only woejous, is now much improved, and although the Michelin nostrils probably flare at the words "Concha y Toro", it surely can't be that.
Anyway, apart from chefs, who cares? Not me. The point is the food, and on my latest visit to the Tannery I had a good time. I also realised that Paul Flynn's food has an earthy, rustic character despite its careful presentation. This does it for me, but perhaps not for the Michelin folk.
A starter of mussels with a wild-garlic broth and crispy breadcrumbs was a case in point. This is essentially bistro food but with a serious twist and the kind of simple, confident presentation that indicates you are not in just any old restaurant. The key thing here was the broth, which was remarkably concentrated and flecked with the green leaves of ramsons [the old English name for wild garlic] - and the unexpected crunch of the breadcrumbs.
Flynn's crab creme brulee, served warm with cucumber pickle and Melba toast, is so good that it must be impossible to wean customers on to something else. It's an albatross around his neck, but a very tasty one. The key elements here are the sweetness of the crab and the rich creaminess of the custard. It's the sort of thing I could eat twice or three times a week in perpetuity.
A main course of whole roast monkfish was less successful and the only element in our dinner where the performance went down a gear or two, but this is not a major gripe. Flynn's fondness for curry spices can do great things, but occasionally they dominate, which is what happened with this fish. Don't misunderstand me: I ate it with considerable pleasure, even the accompanying spiced chickpeas, but judged by the exacting standards that Flynn himself applies, I'd have to say that the fish got a bit lost.
Like virtually everybody who has tried to grow anything along the Waterford-Cork border, my wife and I take a pretty poor view of rabbits, considering them to be not so much fluffy and cute as appropriate cannon fodder for a .22 or a 20-bore. And so it was that we took an extra degree of pleasure in eating wild rabbit at the Tannery when we found that it was local. Revenge has rarely been so sweet.
The rabbit flesh had been slow-cooked in a white stock until it came away in strands and was served between sheets of silky pasta as a kind of celestial lasagne.
Desserts were simple and delicious. A sharp iced lemon parfait was topped with marshmallow to great effect, and rhubarb cannelloni looked as good as it tasted. With a glass of champagne, one of sparkling elderflower cordial and three glasses of wine, the bill came to €157.
The Tannery Restaurant & Townhouse,10 Quay Street, Dungarvan, Co Waterford, 058-45420, www.tannery.ie.
Wine choice:The Tannery's list has improved, but it's still far from commensurate with what comes out of the kitchen. When you see words such as "Concha y Toro" in a restaurant of this calibre you have to wonder. Nevertheless, there are some good things including Henry Pelles Menetou-Salon, a Sançerre clone, for only €33. The rosé from Bergerie de l'Hortus (€30) is a delicious all-rounder and the white (€37) is pleasantly different. Mantel Blanco (€24) is a fine example of how Spain can do zingy and zesty for a keen price. You can have the very rare Château Tertre Roteboeuf from Saint-Emillion for €320 in the 2001 vintage or this property's second wine, Château Roc des Cambes 2002, for €100. Charpentier Champagne NV is an all-Pinot blend and exceptionally good value at €65 or €14.50 a glass.