White whine: save us from Sauvignon

Sauvignon is a safe option for white-wine drinkers, but it can get a bit boring. Here are some alternatives for those who like that style of wine, but want to try something different, writes JOHN WILSON

MY LONG-RUNNING Save Us from Sauvignon (SUS) campaign seems to be gathering some momentum at last. Now, it has a coalition partner, No Pinot Grigio (NPG). Up until now, my crusade to get wine-drinkers to broaden their horizons has been an abject failure. Opinion-formers and consumers alike continue to slurp their way though barrow-loads of these ubiquitous white wines. Yet recently I have been approached by several women (and I understand the majority of Sauvignon-drinkers are female) desperately searching for alternatives.

The reasons behind the success of Sauvignon and Pinot Grigio are simple. The name is always on the label. The wines are made in large quantity, and don’t cost the earth. Most importantly, they share a style: light and fruity, rarely aged in new oak, and without too much alcohol. In other words, crisp, dry, easy-drinking white wines that won’t let you down, are perfect for sipping on their own, or with seafood, salads and white meats. You can see why they are so appealing. They are a safe choice for legions of wine-drinkers who want to get on with the real business of entertainment – eating and talking to friends.

However, if you are starting to tire of drinking the same wine night after night, there are plenty of options open to the slightly adventurous wine drinker. The wine labels certainly don’t make it easy, and choosing a suitable alternative in a restaurant can be even more difficult. In my experience, a group of female diners will routinely be offered “a lovely Sauvignon” or “our favourite Pinot Grigio” by the waiter. A request for something else will be met with “what about an Albariño?” Wine waiters could do a lot more to make the experience easier.

So what are the alternatives? The most obvious is Chardonnay, one of the best grape varieties of all. In the past, many were oaked, and some are higher in alcohol. But there are plenty of un-oaked versions, often around 12.5 to 13 per cent.

Italy may well be the best source Sauvignon substitutes, and is certainly very fashionable. The Italians don’t really go for oaky wines, preferring something light (occasionally a little too light) and crisp, to drink alongside their seafood.

The grape varieties may well be unfamiliar – Grillo, Greco, Garnagena, Fiano and Cataratto along with Verdicchio, Vermintino and many others, but the wines will certainly hit the spot. Don’t forget Soave (now making some very good wines), and its neighbour Custoza either.

Elsewhere in Europe, Austrian Grüner Veltliner, Verdejo and Godello from Spain will all do nicely. France has a number of options, although many regions still refuse to mention a grape variety or style. Chenin Blanc is worth a try, as is Muscadet (so much better these days) and Côtes de Gascogne is often a real bargain. Portugal, covered a few weeks back, now makes some great, fresh whites, well worth checking out.

In the New World, options are fewer: Argentina has Torrontes, sometimes very Sauvignonish; South Africa has Chenin Blanc; and Australia has Semillon, although these last two are occasionally oaked.

Lastly my usual plea for Riesling, which is never oaked, and usually dry (again, you can always ask before you buy). These are fresh, light white wines. Australia has some cracking examples, New Zealand has a few too, and dry German Riesling is one of my favourites.

All of the above wines are guaranteed oak-free and lowish in alcohol. As all wines must declare their alcohol level on the label, it is easy to check in your local supermarket or wine shop. A few restaurants include this information on their wine lists; others please follow. Some also put intelligent tasting notes with each wine, rather than the usual anodyne rubbish. We often feel at our most vulnerable in a restaurant, afraid that cynical waiters will fob us off with one of the most expensive or profitable wines. However, others are very keen to help. You can always ask a few questions, and explain what you usually drink. Better-run restaurants often have wines available by the glass, and can be persuaded to offer a taste before you buy.

Deep down I do not hate Sauvignon or Pinot Grigio (although the latter rarely gets me excited). But as I live with someone who adores Sauvignon, I have made it my business to taste my way around all of the alternative options over the past few years. There really are plenty of exciting wines that will make your wine-drinking so much more fun.

Alpha Zeta Garganega 2010, Italy, 13%, €9.99Garganega is the grape used to make Soave, these days making something of a comeback. Fresh, light and juicy with a racy, dry finish. Perfect sipping wine. Stockists: Red Island Wine Co, Skerries; 64 Wine, Glasthule; World Wide Wines, Waterford; Lilac Wines, Fairview; Michael's Food and Wine, Deerpark; Martin's Off Licence, Fairview; Cellarmaster, Sandyford Business Park; Baggot Street Wines; Bradley's, Cork

Domaine Duffour 2010, Côtes de Gascogne, 12%, €9.49Fresh aromas, with more clean green apple and melon fruits than you could hope for at this price. The prefect Sauvignon look-a-like, and a real bargain to boot. Stockist: O'Briens branches

Steininger Grüner Veltliner 2010, Kamptal, Austria, 12.5%, €12.80A very reasonably-priced Grüner Veltliner, with delicious pear fruits that cushion the vibrant acidity very nicely. Available in many restaurants nationwide, and bound to please everyone at the table. Stockists: Wine Direct, Mullingar, winesdirect.ie

Piedra Verdejo 2010, 13%, €13.95A classic Verdejo, Spain's answer to Sauvignon. This has a nicely aromatic nose, fresh, crisp dry green fruits marked out by clean lemon acidity. Stockists: Mitchell Son, chq, IFSC, Glasthule