Culinaria: JP McMahon on the wonders of wild garlic


Wild garlic, or ramsons, grow plentifully on ancient woodlands all over Ireland. While its green leaves pop their head through the moist soil in early spring, it is not till late spring that their white flower blossoms can be seen in full bloom. It is then that the air surrounding them fills with a garlic-like scent. In recent years, wild garlic pesto has appeared all over the country at artisan markets. It is indeed a wonderful alternative to the dull and lifeless jars of basil pesto that one encounters everywhere.

Making your own is easy. Take a large handful of freshly foraged wild garlic. Pick through it for small insects (unless you require additional protein), rinse briefly and pat dry. Place in a blender and cover with some extra virgin Irish rapeseed oil. Add a handful of toasted hazelnuts and some diced Hegarty’s cheddar (or another similar Irish hard cheese). Season with sea salt and blend until smooth. If you want the pesto to be thicker, add more wild garlic leaves. It really depends on your personal preference. Pour the pesto into a glass jar, seal and keep in the fridge.

In the middle ages, wild garlic was used to flavour bread, butter, and stews. It was also recommended for colds, coughs and asthma. The flowers are wonderful sprinkled over soups and salads, their tiny white tendrils off set luscious green soups such as spinach and pea beautifully.

The seed heads of wild garlic can be preserved and used as a little Irish caper. To do this, wait until the final flowers have fallen and then collect as many seed heads as possible. Snip the tiny seed heads away from the stem. Place in a jar and lightly salt. Leave in the fridge for a week. The remove them, rinse and dry and cover completely in a light vinegar. Then the waiting begins. In Aniar, we usually use ours in the autumn. These little pickled buds pair wonderfully with wild game.