The sun shone down on Paris yesterday and on three outstanding fashion shows from Dior, Issey Miyake and Loewe where JW Anderson made a stellar debut as creative director.
At Dior's show in the Louvre, where front row guests included Carla Bruni and Marion Cotillard, the Belgian designer Raf Simons amalgamated influences from historical dress from the 18th century onwards using the "ingredients" of haute couture like embroidery, bead and cutwork for ultra modern ready to wear.
“It felt more modern to go to the far past not the ‘modernised’ look of the last decade,” he said.
From the opening virginal white dresses with racer back bodices and embroidered pannier skirts to the silk taffeta jumpsuits and sleeveless coats in fuschia, burgundy and bright orange satin that closed the show, the collection was sensual, elegant and up to date. He turned frockcoats worn with shorts into something right for today – like one in sleek navy wool, another in pale blue cotton velvet with patches of embroidery and a shapely black number glittering with jet. Given the applause and cheers at the end, this collection will certainly keep the spirit – and sales – of Dior vibrant and healthy.
There were cheers too for JW Anderson’s revamp of Loewe, the august Spanish leather goods house, held in an open setting at Unesco’s headquarters. The Irish designer whipped up less rigid shapes for an overall look that included not just new takes on its classic Amazona bag, but took in clothes, shoes and jewellery. A chamois coat appliqued with patches of leather came with a bag similarly styled; orange python shoes flashed under a loose linen dress and among the cute clutches and hobo- style woven bags were some novel pieces such as a bag folded like an oversize Spanish fan, a witty touch.
Called “Windscape”, the Issey Miyake collection took its cue from the rippled surfaces of sea and sand with origami creases patterning billowing trousers and hug-me-tight capes. Swirling headwear added to the breezy lightness of this lovely collection in white, blue and sea green.