The cook who one day creates an unequivocal and failsafe recipe for cooking the Christmas turkey will win the hearts of all, for no other food subject is so contentious or provokes such culinary schism among cooks and writers.
This is understandable. Every turkey presents the fundamental dilemma that, whenever the white breast meat is cooked, the brown meat on the legs and thighs will still not be ready. Every different technique is basically an attempt to solve that problem.
Some roast the bird at a constant temperature for the entire cooking time. Some start at a high heat and then turn it down. Others start at a low heat and turn it up. Add the further difficulty presented by the fact that people love to stuff the bird, and this increases cooking times. Thus you have a further reason why people end up with meat like cardboard.
Cooking turkey is, therefore, a compromise. You must understand your own oven. If you have a fan oven, remember to reduce standard cooking temperatures by 10 C. You should cook the smallest bird you can get away with.
And if you want a stuffing, only stuff the neck cavity, and simply put some flavourings - onion, garlic cloves, herbs - in the main body cavity. With the neck cavity, do not overstuff. Simply cook any extra stuffing wrapped in foil alongside the bird.
Smear the breast generously with butter, or cover with strips of bacon, and baste continually. Above all, remember to allow enough time to let the bird rest in a warm place. This is vital, for the flesh will "relax" and reabsorb some of its juices.
The fast way to roast a turkey is to begin with a hot oven (220 C, 425
F, gas mark 7). Then, after 50 minutes, reduce the temperature to 180
C, 350 F, gas mark 4, for the remaining amount of time.
If your bird weighs between 812lb this will take between 1 1/2 and two hours; a bird between 12-15lb will need two to 2 1/2 hours; and a bird between 15-20lb will need 2 1/2 to three hours. These timings are for unstuffed birds.
A stuffed bird will need 20-25 minutes extra.
The slow school of roasting uses a constant temperature. Heat the oven to 170 C, 325 F, gas mark 3, and a turkey weighing 8-12lb will take 3 1/2 to four hours; a bird weighing 12-15lb will need four to 4 1/2 hours; a bird from 15-20lb will need 4 1/2 to five hours.
Now to the test for "doneness": at the end of the roasting time push a skewer into the thickest part of a thigh. If the juices that run out are clear, the bird is done. If they are pink, roast it for up to 10 minutes more and test again.
A turkey needs about 20 minutes' resting time. If your turkey has been roasted properly, allowing it to rest for the right time is essential to ensuring succulent meat.
For many, a simple breadcrumb and herb stuffing is a nostalgic feature of the Christmas meal.
Simple Herb and Pork Stuffing: one medium onion, chopped; 60g (2oz) butter; 60g (2oz) streaky bacon; 60g (2oz) pork sausage meat; one tablespoon chopped parsley; one teaspoon thyme leaves; grated zest of one lemon; 125g (4oz) breadcrumbs; one large egg; salt; pepper; saute the onion in the butter over medium heat until soft. Turn off the heat.
Stir in the rest of the ingredients and season well. Use to stuff the neck cavity of the bird, or wrap in tinfoil and roast alongside the turkey.