Grapes To Pick

Wine producers everywhere are at last waking up to the fact that the world has grown weary of Chardonnay and Cabernet

Wine producers everywhere are at last waking up to the fact that the world has grown weary of Chardonnay and Cabernet. (Except, perhaps in the US, where both are still adored.) The latest wine-producing regions to cause a stir are ones with weird and wonderful native grapes. Greece, for instance, has suddenly emerged into a promising post-retsina era, brandishing bizarre but tasty grapes like Agiorgitiko, Xinomavro and Limnio. Portugal is there, too, with Trincadeira, Touriga Nacional and Periquita only a few of the most recognisable among scores of oddball varieties. Meanwhile, spot how the New World is refocusing on things like Semillon, Riesling, Marsanne, Syrah/Shiraz, Grenache, Barbera and Sangiovese.

Try: Cava Tsantalis Vin de Table, Macedonia, 1994 (Dunnes Stores, £4.49). Greek holidays be damned - winter is the time to dig into the warm, spicy reds of the new Greece. This one, Xinomavro with a dash of Cabernet, is nicely mature and great value.